tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41787782030559372032024-03-19T12:30:11.451-07:00king-dinobob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-45595989406797819682016-11-23T15:02:00.000-08:002016-11-23T15:02:26.723-08:00<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bob's 5.6 Month Manny Challenge</span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: blue;">June 5, 2016 - November 22, 2016</span> </span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL7f04feV3RUwmlB8HCKoBRVMepW4M4ixQwSgZ1iYQT-k2ZaHriPJq90qfgSX_c6Z5xIJNufpu8iS4qnBeWHLBV9t4YRL3RpwErB6y-vaNlSKuCLTbpRJpwJNck4P8ecJneBd9Ku3S270/s1600/wtw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL7f04feV3RUwmlB8HCKoBRVMepW4M4ixQwSgZ1iYQT-k2ZaHriPJq90qfgSX_c6Z5xIJNufpu8iS4qnBeWHLBV9t4YRL3RpwErB6y-vaNlSKuCLTbpRJpwJNck4P8ecJneBd9Ku3S270/s640/wtw.jpg" width="433" /></a></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><i>And who wouldn't be inspired to do great things by this man?</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">There is an old interview of Steve
in a climbing video and he was asked about his goals in climbing. His response
is one of my favorite Manny-isms, something along the lines of: “I think if you
become too goal<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">-</span>oriented then things stop being fun. And if it’s not fun then
what’s the point?”</span></div>
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
Attempting to complete this challenge was a serious goal and there was a <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">time</span>
around mid-September that it definitely stopped being fun. But the point of the
whole deal wasn’t to have fun really. It was to do something difficult in
Steve’s memory, get back into the kind of shape I hadn’t been in years and
provide a little bit of focus and direction. Without question, this challenge
provided me all 3 of those items. <br />
<br />
I didn’t do everything, not even close, but I never really thought I could
anyways. I’ve got a full-time job, a<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">n<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> additional</span></span> part-time job, a girl and a dog,
both of whom I do everything that I can to keep happy. But as Hans told me when
I showed him the original list, “The list is impossible, therefore it must be
attempted.” <br />
<br />
When I started this back in June I weighed 160lbs and was in pretty poor shape<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">, <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">likely the worst in years</span></span>. That said, literally no one on the planet would’ve looked at me and
said, “That guy could stand to lose 15-20 pounds”. I didn’t take a ‘before’
photograph of myself because it never occurred to me, but I looked in the
mirror one day in November and said, “My god dude, you are 45 fricking years
old and you are never going to look like this again.” So I did something I
never thought I’d do: at a bodyweight of 142 lbs, I took a shirtless mirror
selfie, just like Manny’s Beachbody minions used to do (that I relentlessly
made fun of).</span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">So here it is, my <i>Beachbody Bro Shot</i>, laugh away
Manny.</span></span></span></span></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglt4URfDi5uJoHTdH5zH3udPpCYg34kXUex8Ih7Bdwtyl0ZU6md-OAag0XmXYFTIKhrQ23plUfiqKRZ4BXJ7RGpDyX82o-yoP0PnFqkPNHPrw3rG8DSKKVHJtc-PsKkcI1jt3NKCou7aA/s1600/edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglt4URfDi5uJoHTdH5zH3udPpCYg34kXUex8Ih7Bdwtyl0ZU6md-OAag0XmXYFTIKhrQ23plUfiqKRZ4BXJ7RGpDyX82o-yoP0PnFqkPNHPrw3rG8DSKKVHJtc-PsKkcI1jt3NKCou7aA/s400/edit.jpg" width="276" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Now
that it’s over, I’m looking forward to<b> not</b> having every moment of my
life scheduled. I’m also looking forward to sleeping, something that I missed
out on a lot of.</span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Since I don't expect anyone to read this whole thing through, I'd like to get get my acknowledgements out of the way right off the bat.<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> A lot of people were instrumental in helping <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">me </span>get things done, so thanks to all my friends, you know who you are. If I may be allowed to quote m<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">y own words, "Everyone has friends, mine are better." That rang true when I wrote the<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> words</span> 15 years ago and hasn't changed</span> since. For the <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">C</span>hallenge, I didn't have a problem staying motivated, I'm pretty good at self-motivation, but certain things required the help of others to get through and I'd like to <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">single<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> out</span></span> a special thanks to Micah Elconin<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> who was always avai<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">l</span>able when I needed assistance and did his own version of the 5.6 m<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">o<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">nths which he will hopefully write about. Thanks Micah!</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">I'd a<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">lso like to thank <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">Manny for dying<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> on me and thereby tumbling me into <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">my</span> worst <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">fitness level </span>of the last decade and then subsequently motivating me to get into the highest fitness<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> level</span> I've been in for the last decade, all within a few short months. <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">Ok, so now that the obvious crass joke out of the way<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">:</span> I <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">obviously</span> spent a great deal of time thinking about him, cursing him and talking to him in my head throughout the last 5.6 months. The<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">re is no way I could possibly recount the number of times that I wanted to call him up and tell him about whatever it was I was doing and how much it sucked, how much it <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">hurt or how much goddamn fun it was. But if there's one thing I've learned through this experience this year i<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">t</span>'s that life isn't fair and shit doesn't always end up the way you think it will. I always thought we'd be old men together<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">...</span>I was wrong. <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">The fact re<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">mains though, that up</span></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">u</span>ntil I take my own dirt nap, <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">h</span>e wil<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">l always be in my head, "C'mon!!!"</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">~Bob 11/23/16 </span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></span></span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></span></span></span></span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The</span> complete<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> list of 56:</span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpOHjnX9ljUqkF82wunOcaICbI4kwET_97mn29g4JmNZJ7N8-Sc-PdwDwCZiXZD_im5RaottwEG2VkiLUHPnYs-SXC8jLnGubf8FjMiTgJvUBORNMqSke5_XtMn5up40XOHkYtRAXco2k/s1600/Manny+56th.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpOHjnX9ljUqkF82wunOcaICbI4kwET_97mn29g4JmNZJ7N8-Sc-PdwDwCZiXZD_im5RaottwEG2VkiLUHPnYs-SXC8jLnGubf8FjMiTgJvUBORNMqSke5_XtMn5up40XOHkYtRAXco2k/s1600/Manny+56th.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">And here is that spreadsheet expanded showing all the details: <a href="http://www.king-dino.com/56expanded.pdf">Expanded 56 Challenge list</a></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<![endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">And now, the grand finale write-up.
I didn't spend a lot of time writing this up, so don't expect anything clever
and I really don't expect anyone to read all of it anyways, mainly it is just a
journal for myself.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
Challenges completed in order of completion, failures at the end: <br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;"><b>June 29, 2016 – Bob’s 45th birthday </b></span><br />
It seemed fitting to knock off the first few Challenge items on my birthday.
The original plan was to do the ping-pong, the batting cage, the free-throws,
the SUP and knock out 50% of the paddleboarding. In a strange bit of luck
though, a swell had rolled in and instead of just doing some paddle miles, I
was able to make an attempt at 56 waves in a session. What luck with <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">some</span> birthday <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">waves!</span> <br />
<br />
<b>Challenge item 1 - 56 waves surfed in a single session, degree of difficulty
– extreme</b><br />
This one I got lucky on. The reason it was labeled ‘extreme’ is due to the fact
that a few things had to come together that were completely out of any human
control. I needed a perfect swell, sizeable, but not too sizeable. I needed a place with no crowds as well. Thankfully,
that swell rolled into the area on my birthday morning and I got up at 4:30am
and drove down to Mondos (almost to Ventura) which is a VERY user friendly
break, perfect for maximizing wave count. I grabbed my long<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">board and </span>was in the water at 5:30am. The
rules were I had to catch a wave, stand up and ride it until the wave was over
or I fell off. No kicking out early before the wave was done, that’s whack.
Fortunately, Mondos was as perfect as it could be and I caught 40 waves before
another human was in the water over an hour later. It took a little over 2
hours, much less than I had anticipated, and by the time I got out of the water
at just after 7:30am, there were over a hundred people out, including 3 <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">childrens</span>
surf-camps. It was nuts. Paddling out in the near dark definitely paid off,
first Challenge complete! <br />
<br />
<b>Challenge item 2 – 5.6 mile SUP, degree of difficulty – moderate</b><br />
Elijah had let me borrow his 14’ touring SUP for this one, so after the surfing
I just pulled it off the roof of the van and got right back in the water after
some food. I don’t like Stand Up Paddling. I don’t like it AT ALL. I think that
people who ride them in surf breaks should be sent to prison camps. But touring
with them, no problem, even if it isn’t my thing. Anyways, this was my first
time on a SUP and it was pretty uneventful, and I was really slow. Set the GPS
and head out past Faria Point almost to Hobson’s before my GPS told me I could
turn around. The whole trip took 1hr 35 minutes, seriously slow. And I only
fell off once, right in front of a bunch of surfers in the water on my way back
in….of course. <br />
<br />
<b>Challenge item 3 – 56 minutes in the batting cage, degree of difficulty –
moderate</b><br />
Micah met up with me when I got home and we headed over to the batting cages on
Milpas. I didn’t set any parameter of ’56 minutes straight’ in the cage or anything, just
56 minutes, so I could break it into sections with rests. This was primarily
because: a) I haven’t been to the batting cages in years and b) 56 minutes
straight would have undoubtedly injured me and ended other challenge items. I
was an ok ballplayer as a kid, but definitely no Manny (who I recall hit 40
home runs for his 40th), and I gotta say, this one was seriously hard. And
expensive. I think it was almost 50 bucks for enough tokens to be in the cage
for 56 minutes. Halfway through, my wrists and elbows were killing me, Micah
had the same issues along with a massive blister opening on his hand. This was
way harder than I expected and seriously painful. The Pukester and Andree both
showed up to take some pitches and egg us on, the whole thing took about two
hours. Glad that one was over with.</span><br />
<br />
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</span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Challenge item 4 – 56 free throws in
56 minutes, degree of difficulty – moderate</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
As hard as the batting cages were, the free throws were as easy. My distaste of
the sport of basketball is often documented, but I don’t really mind shooting
hoops every once in a while. This went smooth and only took about a half hour.
By now it was the afternoon and we headed back to the house for
ping-pong.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJYjwzbHKSzBXCVw281oeNjz4NCOR5ZAALiHIksq6hQR8NCP3vfWpllkjuLVdKbR4otadvZvdqkN5Y2zj6GoxL7m6-cGHTIa4BaEoqlnDv_lBq2ks6QGS78hV-L9pDAGhcaPxYelRCSvk/s1600/pong.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJYjwzbHKSzBXCVw281oeNjz4NCOR5ZAALiHIksq6hQR8NCP3vfWpllkjuLVdKbR4otadvZvdqkN5Y2zj6GoxL7m6-cGHTIa4BaEoqlnDv_lBq2ks6QGS78hV-L9pDAGhcaPxYelRCSvk/s400/pong.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Challenge item 5 – 56 games of
ping-pong, degree of difficulty – easy</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></span></span></span></div>
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Here entered the beer-drinking part of the day, back at the house where
Pukester had let me borrow his ping-pong table and I set it up in the driveway.
One of Micah’s challenge items was to cook for 56 people so while I started
ping-pong with folks that were showing up, he started cooking and it the party
began.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNZaQg42sQInowmJ8cVbcuDC9wOLcAAKZcwh_vIGEZJH-_NNeHfSGo-EePisJln1R3-5LECan2pK2Tuyq6Tezm9srJNGuiCWhYdQ1Rxhwmjvybup94qJv6fhL4-A5FJ0zDaibBPtkIPtI/s1600/dinner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNZaQg42sQInowmJ8cVbcuDC9wOLcAAKZcwh_vIGEZJH-_NNeHfSGo-EePisJln1R3-5LECan2pK2Tuyq6Tezm9srJNGuiCWhYdQ1Rxhwmjvybup94qJv6fhL4-A5FJ0zDaibBPtkIPtI/s400/dinner.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Truth
be told, the ping-pong took a lot longer than I anticipated, and by the end I
was begging The Pukester to play me because he’s WAAAAY better than me and
would kill me very quickly….hence very short games. Dinner was fantastic and
the whole gang came by for Micah’s feast: Me & Deb, Phil & Amity,
Pukester, Elijah, Hawk, Andree, Micah & his friend Kate. Fun evening, lots
of good food, wine and Oly. And ping-pong. After everything was over we got
dressed up in suits and headed to The Agave, my first ‘occasion’ wearing
Manny’s suit.</span></span> </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFu4YzeDFVASo5B2mlW56sf71aAZs7YennQ9yQ1C4DDY_157Kj-89ErpIAXJm-UnKXwtI6AgeyhFimdG4v26DZsr3HQ1o36AZ1mMrSrSZhTs1CkLB0J225rjjwv7lA19VKhHAjLDdQ9uU/s1600/agave2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFu4YzeDFVASo5B2mlW56sf71aAZs7YennQ9yQ1C4DDY_157Kj-89ErpIAXJm-UnKXwtI6AgeyhFimdG4v26DZsr3HQ1o36AZ1mMrSrSZhTs1CkLB0J225rjjwv7lA19VKhHAjLDdQ9uU/s640/agave2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Myself, Phil, Hawk and Micah. Le<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">g ups and ready for action.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></i></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: red;">July
12, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge item 6 – 5600 miles airline travel, degree of difficulty - moderate</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
This was a replacement challenge, not on the original list, but I removed 5.6
days ‘off the grid’ when I realized I couldn’t make it happen. Manny spent a
fair amount of time logging miles on airlines so I thought this was fitting. An
across the country trip to Montreal took care of the challenge.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7MJxKkqcMtuVyyPteN3v53ef8gP2c2uv98Y7t1WgLCTv0c7vHVNidhkonxHhaE6ktoHdAhkAhpOQECfIbawQrlbJ9NmmJlv9Wd0lONDOiytv1RYZ82EundGYj_vYMdmtaTLkDMHxdq8/s1600/flight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7MJxKkqcMtuVyyPteN3v53ef8gP2c2uv98Y7t1WgLCTv0c7vHVNidhkonxHhaE6ktoHdAhkAhpOQECfIbawQrlbJ9NmmJlv9Wd0lONDOiytv1RYZ82EundGYj_vYMdmtaTLkDMHxdq8/s400/flight.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: red;">August
7, 2016</span> <br />
<br />
Challenge item 7 – 56 cocktails, degree of difficulty – hard</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
Knowing the quantity of my alcohol consumption, one might ask, “Degree of
difficulty – hard?” But alas, I am not a regular cocktail drinker, and never
have been. I drink beer, and lots of it in regular intervals (nightly).
Generally, if I have a cocktail, I’ll have it out at a bar where someone makes
it for me, and that’s maybe only once a week or two. Truth be told, I have a
very well stocked bar that sits dormant a vast majority of the time. There are
bottles of booze on there that have been there literally for years. I actually
forced myself to drink waaaay more than I normally do, mainly because I wanted
to get this one out of the way early. The strategy worked and I’m glad it was
out of the way early. My liver was probably not as psyched on the strategy.</span><br />
<br />
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<![endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: red;">August
13, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge item 8 – 56 frames of bowling, degree of difficulty – moderate</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
This was a fun one. I don’t bowl very often, but it’s usually fun because it’s
an activity that revolves around drinking with your friends, something that I
can thoroughly get behind. For this one Reed and Josh both came out, and
Pukester, Hawk, Phil, Micah and Elijah all met up at the bowling alley for
numerous white Russians, beers and drunken bowling. So drunken, I actually
don’t remember leaving the bowling alley. My next memory was sitting at the bar
at Jimmy’s with Reed and Josh (don’t worry, Deb drove us), because, obviously,
we needed more drinks. Apparently we ate some dinner as well, I have no
recollection of that either and neither did Reed. I did have the wherewithal to
start in on my fritters that evening though…. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<br />
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<![endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: red;">August
14, 2016</span> <br />
<br />
Challenge item 9 – 5.6 fritters, degree of difficulty – extreme</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
Hung over, we set to work on Sunday watching Clint Eastwood movies and eating
fritters, Josh, Reed, Micah and myself. The fritters were disgusting, but at
least time did not allow for us to have Kingpins Fed-Ex’d, so while I kind of
feel like it was ‘fritter-lite’, I’m still counting it since it was still gross.<br />
<b><br />
Challenge item 10 – 5 Clint Eastwood movies in a day, degree of difficulty –
easy</b><br />
Designed to be a ‘hung-over’ activity, that’s what it was. Reed and Josh stayed
for the first two, me and Micah went for the duration. Dirty Harry, Magnum Force,
The Enforcer, Every Which Way But Loose and finished up with the classic
Thunderbolt and Lightfoot. <br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: red;">August 17, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge item 11 – Memories of Manny Book, degree of difficulty – easy</b><br />
Not sure why I gave this an ‘easy’. By no stretch of the imagination is writing
something that other people will read ever easy. I wrote a bunch of stuff
between the end of February and June/July, some of it didn’t make the cut, what
was left got put in the book. People seemed to enjoy it, so I guess it was a success.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR7d76_n1P6vdbsHwS2kWQ9Hs33vNMv9i478hhTzxY5i-kgs4rbgFQbjMAUaUVbiaM8a0dD6QzBjgCh2rAKHPo5du3YMt9XJlAgiIrLFOWPeCFqEjSiP-GnBAeHlqtUzH2dhp_m8LWxIU/s1600/cover_revised.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR7d76_n1P6vdbsHwS2kWQ9Hs33vNMv9i478hhTzxY5i-kgs4rbgFQbjMAUaUVbiaM8a0dD6QzBjgCh2rAKHPo5du3YMt9XJlAgiIrLFOWPeCFqEjSiP-GnBAeHlqtUzH2dhp_m8LWxIU/s320/cover_revised.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
<b><span style="color: red;">September 1, 2016</span> <br />
<br />
Challenge item 12 – 56 Olys, degree of difficulty – easy</b><br />
I literally think that this challenge was completed in two weekends at the
cabin. Drinking copious quantities of Oly is one of the things that I do best.</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzS27iAEOAdzbdG7wHdKR-gGfMOllM8D3fydBN-NVGQwWwdWYttAFR4l7lYdYVz-mKIZXkCg0ftstCZyfOkvZAiV_rFHrhMXGZoeUBrx8tpxkPKC0BAscR25-PNrzp944bn9iLEomTQOI/s1600/20160917_135441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzS27iAEOAdzbdG7wHdKR-gGfMOllM8D3fydBN-NVGQwWwdWYttAFR4l7lYdYVz-mKIZXkCg0ftstCZyfOkvZAiV_rFHrhMXGZoeUBrx8tpxkPKC0BAscR25-PNrzp944bn9iLEomTQOI/s400/20160917_135441.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: red;">September 10, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge item 13 – Ride a Century, degree of difficulty – hard</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
Never been big on riding bikes for big mileage, this was to be my first
century. It just so worked out that Reed’s birthday challenge involved back to
back 100 mile days so I took the opportunity to ride along. Saturday it was 50
miles on the singlespeed, followed by another 50 on my cross bike. It wasn’t as
bad as I thought it would be, but definitely not easy and my ass felt it.
Particularly the next day when I got back on the singlespeed and rode another
50 miles with Reed. <br />
<b><br />
<span style="color: red;">September 17, 2016</span> <br />
<br />
Challenge item 14 – The Grandeur 10, degree of difficulty – extreme</b><br />
I’m counting the G10 as a ‘success’ purely because I had no intention of being
capable of actually doing it the way that Manny envisioned. Just getting there
and participating and getting the mileage in was a success for me, as I plan on
going back during better conditions (less people, no dog, no ash-dump ceremony)
and doing it properly. Epic day though, and great fun and suffering, just the
way Manny wanted it to be. It was a perfect day out.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
<b><span style="color: red;">October 1, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge item 15 – 56 new boulder problems, degree of difficulty – moderate</b><br />
This one might seem a gimme to some people, but the reality is that if you go
400 miles in any direction from Santa Barbara there are very few existing
bouldering areas that I’ve never been to, let alone ones that I haven’t climbed
at quite a bit. Point being, if I haven’t done something at a California
bouldering area when I was climbing tons, there is probably a reason, and that
isn’t going to change now. Basically, I needed to find and visit areas I’d
never been to make this one successful. I did have a back-up locale, Stoney
Point, a place which I’d been to only once (with Manny) and we climbed exactly
2 problems before leaving. I wasn’t interested in going back. Luckily, on the
way back from the Grandeur 10, Micah and I stopped by Joe’s Valley in Utah,
which I’d never been to (nor had he) and we were like kids in a candy store, it
was epic. The brunt of the new problems were ticked off in two joyful days at
Joe’s. The remainder I found a couple areas on the East Side by my cabin,
places I’d never been to and will likely never go back. Like I said, if I
hadn’t been there in my bouldering heyday, there was probably a reason.<br />
<b><br />
<span style="color: red;">October 8, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge item 16 – 56 Steve Edwards boulder problems or routes, degree of
difficulty – hard</b><br />
This should’ve been DoD of easy. Just doing 560 boulder problems in the Santa
Barbara area a person would unquestionably get 100 Edwards ascents in, the guy
was pretty prolific. That said, after a handful of redpoints in the area and a
trip to The Lizard’s Mouth, all it took was a day of endurance bouldering
through Red Rock to bang out waaaay more than 56. <br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: red;">October 11, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge item 17 – Watch 56 TV episodes, degree of difficulty – hard</b><br />
I don’t really watch TV at all and to be truthful, without Netflix this would
have been an absolute failure since I literally cannot stand to sit there and
watch commercials. But I found a few shows on Netflix to stream, and really,
this was pretty easy. <br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: red;">October 16, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge item 18 – Get weight under 150lbs, degree of difficulty – easy</b><br />
For me, weight loss is pretty easy and is basically a mind game of controlling
appetite and exercise. I’m pretty good at mind games and I like exercising. I dropped under 1<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">50 by mid-October, and <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">t</span></span>he lowest I weighed in was 141.8, during th<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">e 56 hour<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> Challenge at the end</span></span>. As
of this writing, I’m still hovering around 14<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">3</span> lbs, which is 1<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">7</span> pounds less
than when I started the challenge.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: red;">October 20, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge Item 19 - 56 hour fast, degree of difficulty – easy</b><br />
Another mind game. Easy. Could’ve gone a lot longer. <br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: red;">October 24, 2016</span> <br />
<br />
Challenge item 20 – Visit 5 places I’ve never been, degree of difficulty – easy</b><br />
An easy ‘challenge’, but surprisingly difficult to achieve. The five new
places: </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">1. Montreal </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">2. Quebec City </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">3. Joe’s Valley, Utah </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">4. Mt Shasta, CA </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">5. Oakridge, Oregon</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdXFpceeZ2Ks_cui1ihOUpqXRHZZeIUfeYQXyssDtYJSswVLI64L62XWlu0yd6BN7v73pzWgXtUS6uuOW4eP635f99QXkzEA6XMIAPyTBk6Sy5ODwO2hUajNohRJwZM08oJGuYo9xYlmo/s1600/quebec+city.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdXFpceeZ2Ks_cui1ihOUpqXRHZZeIUfeYQXyssDtYJSswVLI64L62XWlu0yd6BN7v73pzWgXtUS6uuOW4eP635f99QXkzEA6XMIAPyTBk6Sy5ODwO2hUajNohRJwZM08oJGuYo9xYlmo/s400/quebec+city.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <i>Quebec City. Yes, we stayed in this lovely little hotel.</i></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
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<![endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: red;">November
4, 2016</span> <br />
<br />
Challenge item 21 – Make 56 vegetarian meals, degree of difficulty – moderate</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
This one was pretty hard and seriously time consuming. I truly enjoy preparing
food for us, but having to find vegetarian dishes to make was difficult and not
necessarily my favorite way of cooking. I finished off the last 10 or so during
the juice diet, which I counted all as ‘meals made’ because realistically it’s
more time consuming to juice than to cook an entire fricking meal. What a pain
in the ass. I did come out of this with some new favorite meals though, and Deb
was hyper-psyched on the whole process. Nuke<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">, however, was way less than <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">psyched. Less meat around the house means less meat around the house for a dog to eat. Sandbagged!</span></span> I particularly got into North African
cuisine, just delicious (morrocan tagine below).</span><br />
<br />
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<![endif]--></span><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: red;">November 5, 2016</span> <br />
<br />
Challenge item 22 – 5.6 day juice fast, degree of difficulty – moderate</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
I’ve done 6 days before a couple times. This one is mostly boredom control.
Also, the day after the fast I felt like total shit for some reason, which has never
happened before. Weird.<br />
<br />
<b>Challenge item 23 – 5 different 6-day diets, degree of difficulty – easy</b><br />
By the 5th diet (the juice fast) I was seriously sick of dieting in any way. I
hate structured eating, I much prefer to eat whatever the hell I want. <br />
<br />
The diets:<br />
1. Vegetarian </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">2. Pescatarian </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">3. Snake diet (1 meal per day – an
old Manny diet) </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">4. 5/1500 diet (200-300 calories 5
times/day) – I used to use this to get lean for climbing </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
<b><span style="color: red;">November 12, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge item 24 – 5 organized events, degree of difficulty - hard</b><br />
I can’t stand doing things in groups, especially paying money to do things in
groups. A couple of these are kind of cop-outs because they were events with
friends, but whatever, they were ‘organized’. The final event was the SB Half
Marathon, where I paid $120 to run the beach path that I run 3-5 times a week,
except with 1000 other people. It was a bit surreal. <br />
<br />
The events: </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">1. Paddle for Sorel (charity paddle)
</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">3. Grandeur 10 </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">4. Owltoberfest </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">5. Santa Barbara Half Marathon</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWtgTxfQU2YPBC0ozauPaPnroBUj4-xqPNva_Jg7kLpfMXAdI-Ak8ZPt-mmImJ1jpLzOdqelmUp4wN2WteyyyR-F9emzsFAJmN8pJsjDILTuBpoeCqCaz_RTr4p7GdUUfgVl0f9M9eVVQ/s1600/race.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWtgTxfQU2YPBC0ozauPaPnroBUj4-xqPNva_Jg7kLpfMXAdI-Ak8ZPt-mmImJ1jpLzOdqelmUp4wN2WteyyyR-F9emzsFAJmN8pJsjDILTuBpoeCqCaz_RTr4p7GdUUfgVl0f9M9eVVQ/s400/race.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span> </span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: red;">November 13, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge item 25 –Add 13 movies to Manny’s list of 43, degree of difficulty -
easy</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
I’m not presuming to know what movies Manny would’ve added to a list 13 years
later, and I’m sure I got some of these wrong, but I’m also sure that several
of them are very accurate and would’ve unquestionably been on any list he’d
make up. It was fun to think these up nevertheless, and I re-watched several of
them as well. I highly suggest that others do the same.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
Link to the list: <a href="http://www.king-dino.com/13more.pdf">13 More Films</a></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<b><span style="color: red;">November 14, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge item 26 – run a 5:37 mile, degree of difficulty - extreme</b><br />
Time: 5:31 </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Ok, so this one got ‘fudged’ a
little bit. My longstanding plantar fasciitis makes running not pleasurable,
and fast running even less so, so I basically didn’t train at all to run a fast
mile, although I did run a lot (far more than even I anticipated). So while a
did run a 5:31 mile, granted it was on a downhill course (a drop of about 90ft
in the mile) and not a flat track. Whatever, Birthday Challenges are about
adapting, no?<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: red;">November 15, 2016</span> <br />
<br />
Challenge item 27 – 56 consecutive days no drinking, degree of difficulty -
moderate</b><br />
This one was easier than I thought it was going to be. I go 30 days without
booze usually once a year, but never for 2 months. Like, NEVER. But all in all,
not a tough one, mainly because I have no social life to speak of (Deb and I
hang out at home by ourselves the vast majority of our lives), and also, I was
so focused on getting ultra-fit, the no-boozing just worked into the lifestyle.<br />
<br />
<b>Challenge item 28 – 56 consecutive days flossing, degree of difficulty -
easy</b><br />
I hate people<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> messing </span>with my teeth. That includes me. Flossing is like
torture. But I am committed to continue flossing until my next dentist
appointment in a couple months. When I finally flash my gums if the first thing out of
the hygienist's mouth isn't, "My god, this is amazing", then I'm
never touching fucking dental floss again in my life.<br />
<br />
<b>Challenge item 29 – 560 Boulder problems, degree of difficulty - easy</b><br />
Just a bunch of bouldering. <br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: red;">November 18, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge item 30 – Replicate the 50th Challenge for Manny’s 56th, degree of
difficulty - extreme</b><br />
For Steve’s 50th birthday a bunch of people got together and did challenges for
him. I did what at the time was a really difficult challenge and it required me
to get in very good shape. I busted my ass for 3 months and did pretty well,
although I didn’t get to do it the way I wanted to (weather issues). So I
decided that the end of the road of this challenge would be to duplicate the
50th challenge for his 56th. In 56 hours do the following: </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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1. 56 miles running </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">2. 56 miles biking </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">3. 560 reps
pushups/pullups/squats/ab exercise </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">4. 10 mile ocean paddle </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">5. 56 boulder problems, 10 V5 or
harder</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
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And I managed to do it in pretty good style. The bouldering, which I certainly
would’ve failed at on during the 50th, I managed to do pretty easily since I
got into much better climbing shape (that’s what shedding 18 pounds does for
climbing ability). I ended up doing 6 V5s, 3 V6s and 1 V7.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">The next several items were all <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">completed during</span> this challenge<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">:</span><br />
<br />
<b>Challenge item 31 – 560 kilometers running, degree of difficulty - extreme</b><br />This was originally supposed to be miles, but in what is a long-standing
Birthday Challenge adaptation, miles got switched to kilometers when the shit
starts to go down. In the end I ran 377 miles (606 kilometers). I am incredibly
happy with this numbers considering I practically didn’t run June/July because
of horrible plantar fasciitis. But I finally figured out that it didn’t hurt
any more or less whether or not I ran, so I opted to run, and for some reason,
the PF is getting better. Below, one of the highlights of the last few months,
running Pre's Trail in Eugene, Oregon. Manny and I were <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">big fans of Steve Prefontaine.</span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1rpsuotmOmXoaX2B2bovWSlqa1fcp9l9Uf7ZT_XrPjzNY1jJgXUSRerz5yi8ojkqmCJWbhj74wB8T9NR7cECH4Mdh3oYXhoY1jeQTDTCW4Jh874rDnGiB4s2DHsLTWEUN7fq0GJzDR6c/s1600/pre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1rpsuotmOmXoaX2B2bovWSlqa1fcp9l9Uf7ZT_XrPjzNY1jJgXUSRerz5yi8ojkqmCJWbhj74wB8T9NR7cECH4Mdh3oYXhoY1jeQTDTCW4Jh874rDnGiB4s2DHsLTWEUN7fq0GJzDR6c/s640/pre.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> Pre's trail in Eugene, Oregon. I enjoyed running this so much I did it more than once during our brief stay in Eugene.</span></span></div>
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<![endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: red;">November
19, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge item 32 – 56 miles paddleboarding, degree of difficulty - easy</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
I had 7 miles left to paddle when I started the 56 hr challenge but as luck
would have it, I messed up my shoulder in a climbing fall the day before I was
supposed to do the 10 miler to finish. <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">Therefor<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">e the paddle</span></span> was excruciatingly painful. I almost turned around at the fi<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">rs<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">t buoy (.75 miles), but said screw it and went on to finish.</span></span> Total
misery.</span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Challenge item 33 – 560 miles bike
riding, degree of difficulty - extreme</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
I was originally going to make this mountain bike or cross-bike only, but in
the end I added in my commuter miles. I ride my bike to work pretty much every
day, 4 miles (minimum). <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">In reality I probably rode 8</span>00 something miles.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: red;">November 20, 2016 </span><br />
<br />
Challenge items 34-37 – 5600 reps each pullups, pushups, ab exercise, squats,
degree of difficulty - moderate</b><br />
This one was just chipping away reps, day by day. I averaged about 3 ½ hour
sets per week. Ended up doing more than 5600. <br />
<br />
<b>Challenge item 38 – Run 56 miles in 56 hours, degree of difficulty - extreme</b><br />
This was actually less painful than when I did the 50th. A lot of running was
done in the last 3 months to prepare, and I felt pretty decent throughout. I
ran 23, then 7, then 14, then 12. The last 12 sucked since my ankles felt like
they were being crushed in a vice and my left groin muscle had s<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">ei</span>zed up
something furious the night before. But I did it.<br />
<br />
<b>Challenge item 39 – 560 reps of 4 exercises each in 56 hours, degree of
difficulty - moderate</b><br />
Another one of just clicking reps away. Of note though, the shoulder tweak that
happened during the climbing wreaked havoc on my push-up ability. As in,
screaming pain during a regular push-up. So I had to do knee pushups just to
manage, which still hurt, but hurt a lot less. <br />
<b><br />
<span style="color: red;">November 21, 2016</span> <br />
<br />
Challenge item 40 – Read 56 books, degree of difficulty - extreme</b><br />
This one was a real serious long shot, but I did have a strategy for adapting.
That strategy involved the children’s section at the Santa Barbara Public Library,
where I read roughly 30 children’s books in less than an hour. Regardless of
that fact, I was pretty happy to have read a lot of real books as well, over 20
legitimate books actually. It seemed like I was reading a lot, which was nice.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
<span style="color: red;"><b>November 22, 2016 Manny's Birthday</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
<b>Challenge item 41 - 56 cold showers, degree of difficulty - easy</b></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Manny got way into the <i>Wim Hof
Method</i> in the last year after I told him about this guy who walks around in
freezing cold temperatures in a pair of shorts. So he ordered up Wim Hof's
training system, which is purported to be incredibly good for the immune
system, and a big part of it is cold showers and breath control. I hate cold
showers, it's like taking one of the more pleasurable parts of the day and
making it suck. Unlikely that I'll take another one.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
<b>Challenge item 42 - Participate in the challenge every day, degree of
difficulty - easy</b></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">See the list. Not a single 'rest
day'. Perpetually over-trained, over-dieted, over-movied<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">, under-fed and </span>over-read. I'm
going to spend a lot of time sleeping in the next month.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
<b>Challenge item 43 - Watch 56 movies including all from "Manny's
43" list, degree of difficulty - hard</b></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">56 mo<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">vies is a lot of movies. One of the best parts<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> about this Challenge <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">item was going <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">into the last remaining <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">video store on the Central Coast to actually rent DVDs again. It was aweso<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">me and seemed totally appropriate for a Steve Edwards challenge. Netflix had a grand total of ZER<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">O movies on Manny's list, so I got 95% of them from The Video Shop. Awesome.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">See this list for my commentary on
revisiting Manny's '43 Films That You Absolutely Must See":</span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/43films.pdf">43 Films with Bob's Commentary</a></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">FAILURES: </span></b></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
<br />
<b>56 Days of Surfing, degree of difficulty, extreme</b><br />
This one was extreme for the primary reason that the likelihood of
success/failure was for the most part out of my control. When you’re dealing
with surf, particularly summer surf in Santa Barbara, one is left to rely on
acts of nature. Last summer we had a slew of really good waves…this summer
though, not so much. I figured if I had 20 days in by then end of August then
getting another 36 during the ‘good’ months of September-November would be
easy. Truth was, it was flat almost all summer (the best day in fact was
probably my birthday session when I caught 56 waves) and by the end of
September (not August!) I had 7 days in. Not good. By early October it was
mathematically impossible to make the number of days, even if I surfed every
single day that I was home, I had enough trips planned far away from the ocean
that it wasn’t going to happen. <br />
<br />
<b>56 new redpoints, degree of difficulty, moderate </b><br />
I made it to 18, but really not even close. I <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">had a pipe dream that I would get re-invigorated <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">about rock</span> climbing during this <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">Challenge, but it simply didn't happen</span></span>. <br />
<br />
<b>Climb 5.13, degree of difficulty, extreme </b><br />
Same thing as above, I just didn’t prioritize climbing enough. I never even got
on a 5.13, let alone tried to redpoint one. I certainly got light enough to
climb 5.13 again, that’s for sure. We’ll see what happens in the next few
months and maybe I can salvage something with my fitness. <br />
<br />
<b>Climb V10, degree of difficulty, extreme </b><br />
This one I thought I had a shot at. I got my ass handed to me on the one time I
got on an old V10 that I used to have wired. I plan on going to get back on it
this coming weekend. Won’t count for the Challenge no matter what
unfortunately. <br />
<br />
<b>Summit 56 Peaks, degree of difficulty, extreme </b><br />
This is one of those that just kept getting bumped to lower degrees of priority
simply because of the time required to achieve it. Most of the 1<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">7</span></span> “peaks” that I
did do were pretty silly, basically I couldn’t even muster up the time to do
silly peaks, let alone legitimate ones. <br />
<br />
<b>5 California 14ers, degree of difficulty, extreme </b><br />
As with the 56 peaks, this one required a window of time I simply didn’t have.
The closest I got to any 14ers was looking at them through the car window. Does
seeing 5 California 14ers count?<br />
<br />
<b>56 Disc Golf Holes, degree of difficulty, moderate </b><br />
I’ve disc golfed maybe twice in my life and I figured I could wrangle up
someone to get out with me, but it never came together. Back to the whole
‘time’ issue. Oddly enough, this one was a replacement of ‘56 games of beach
volleyball”. <br />
<br />
<b>Wear Manny’s suit to 5 occasions, degree of difficulty, moderate</b><br />
Sort of bummed on this one, but realistically, I wear a suit maybe once every
two years. The two events where I wore the suit during the Challenge were my
own birthday, and then Manny’s. Nobody got married this summer and there was
never any reason to get dressed up, and in a degree of lame-ness, I never made
an excuse to do it either. <br />
<br />
<b>5.6 second front lever, degree of difficulty, extreme</b><br />
I think I trained for front levers less than 5 times. This one just got bumped
on the priority list and I highly doubt if I’d done little else but train front
levers I could’ve done one anyways. I was never very good at them. It's
entirely possible I held one for 56 seconds, but maybe not.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
<b>One arm pull-up, degree of difficulty, extreme</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">This was initially 'do 56
one-arm pull-ups', but I realized by late October that just getting to do one
would be monumental. There was a time in my life when I could do 4 consecutive
on either arm. That was a long time ago, and I haven't managed to do a single
one in at least a decade. I tried really hard on this <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">challenge item</span> and still couldn't
make it happen, although I came very, very close. I'm close enough that I don't plan on giving up either.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
<b>Close the #1 gripper, degree of difficulty, extreme</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">I have always sucked at the Captains
of Crush grippers and I made this one a serious priority during the challenge.
The initial challenge was to close the #1 5 times on each hand, but in a
crushing blow to my ego, my left hand simply wouldn't cooperate. I'd have been
incredibly happy to close the #1 just once with my left, but it wasn't to be.
Right hand was fine though, for 1 rep that is. 5 is a pipe dream.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
<b>4 minute breath hold, degree of difficulty, extreme</b></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Only made it 2 minutes 55 seconds.
Actually was more optimistic than that and am somewhat surprised and
disappointed.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br />
<b>Experiment in Terror, degree of difficulty, hard</b></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">What can I say. I think my days of highball
bouldering are long gone. I got up on this thing <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">without a spotter and said, "Nope."</span></span>bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-64780057508782595192013-01-06T14:56:00.001-08:002013-01-06T14:56:05.594-08:00People Suck: Volume 2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTKas9sQbLqsdxnUUJQoO7cTnTs9OxujUIRirEw9ki6k8DYP8zQsKq1dr3ElffcXaOtbZVD5J05DaV0RzzWrWN3GLd4ZPSxeVa92Z0foSAGDRIOuiDhLAnUgp7pohmue2J3_NLWorddZQ/s1600/Double+Indemnity.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
Was up at The Lizard's Mouth yesterday for a nice session before it started raining again. Banged out the old "easy circuit", which is one of the more pleasant climbing experiences in town I think (although I'm embarrassed to admit that a couple problems on my 'easy' circuit, I could not manage to do). Really reminds me of a Font circuit. Anyways, I was distraught to find that some cocksmoker had done some graffiti removal on a couple boulders. This rendition of 'removal' involved literally chiseling the graffiti off of the boulder. I noticed two instances, first at <i>Brigid O'Shaunessey</i> and also at <i>Double Indemnity</i> (shown below).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTKas9sQbLqsdxnUUJQoO7cTnTs9OxujUIRirEw9ki6k8DYP8zQsKq1dr3ElffcXaOtbZVD5J05DaV0RzzWrWN3GLd4ZPSxeVa92Z0foSAGDRIOuiDhLAnUgp7pohmue2J3_NLWorddZQ/s1600/Double+Indemnity.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTKas9sQbLqsdxnUUJQoO7cTnTs9OxujUIRirEw9ki6k8DYP8zQsKq1dr3ElffcXaOtbZVD5J05DaV0RzzWrWN3GLd4ZPSxeVa92Z0foSAGDRIOuiDhLAnUgp7pohmue2J3_NLWorddZQ/s320/Double+Indemnity.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Whether this was another gangbang shithead erasing an enemy tag or a well-intentioned nature dude being a complete fucking idiot, I guess we may never know, but it makes me sick nonetheless. People suck.bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-66984226787650581302012-12-23T21:15:00.000-08:002012-12-23T21:28:41.881-08:00The Swimming Hole - Tar Creek Tribute Video<br />
Sitting around on a rainy late December weekend inevitably brings back memories of what happened at one of the finest bouldering areas on Earth almost 8 years ago now. The Swimming Hole sported 300+ problems in an unbelievable concentration of perfect stone, <span style="font-size: small;">superb</span> boulders and an idyllic setting. It was nothing short of a dreamland and if I may paraphrase a quote from my own book, I wrote something like "You could not climb, not get drunk, not get laid and still have the best day of your life out there, it's that good." (also interesting is my priority list of what my best day was considered).<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT2iVT24fu9qOuDEFODUriTODoi6ShGwYKF8MAa-JeANv6X5fcHrBoB0DGC2EM53NQ4WYkbYps7Q2WglMLsHyAF6fKA6TCztKjcrJGD_6p6BPgN1I1-SHUu5ZW8Cw1YoD_2Cqb844xm1g/s1600/SH_1.5.05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT2iVT24fu9qOuDEFODUriTODoi6ShGwYKF8MAa-JeANv6X5fcHrBoB0DGC2EM53NQ4WYkbYps7Q2WglMLsHyAF6fKA6TCztKjcrJGD_6p6BPgN1I1-SHUu5ZW8Cw1YoD_2Cqb844xm1g/s320/SH_1.5.05.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Tar Creek, January 5, 2005. Very high, very muddy water. photo: colm fitzgerald</span></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In late December 2004 a series of storms began to hit the Central Coast in rapid succession with massive amounts of rain and widespread damage. The worst of the storm hit on January 10th, 2005 with pounding monsoon-style rainfall. Official data recorded just shy of 15 inches of rain in Ventura over a 15 day period culminating in the storm of January 10th. This massive rainfall increased creek flows substantially, and Tar Creek, home to The Swimming Hole boulders was flowing like mad. To complicate matters, there had been a forest fire that swept through Tar Creek a little over a year prior, decimating vegetation on the steep hillsides above The Swimming Hole. The lack of significant root systems essentially holding the hillside together as it should resulted in incredible amount of mud flowing into Tar Creek turning it into a very massive, heavy and therefore powerful flow. <br />
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In mid-January, 2005 I left for a surf trip to Costa Rica.<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span></span>Three weeks later I returned to the U.S.A. and walked off of a jet at LAX and turned on my telephone. After being gone 3 weeks I had exactly one voice-mail (shows you how popular I am). I'll never forget the message. It was Jeff Johnson and he said, "Bob, The Swimming Hole as we know it no longer exists. It's gone dude, everything's gone. All of it. I was walking around in a daze, I still can't believe it."<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH1T-AXGrEE-UeLs1oo30X4O8JEeF605ZpBLKVZuTt4zIM6AC30TyI9-6S6gPIWhnNCoZ7hsOUhOaZ1H36bLAsLi3d4u4vk065bnXKQGQFG1NavYU9nGZr9rr50qWrCMCHESmFXASA6Uk/s1600/xxx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH1T-AXGrEE-UeLs1oo30X4O8JEeF605ZpBLKVZuTt4zIM6AC30TyI9-6S6gPIWhnNCoZ7hsOUhOaZ1H36bLAsLi3d4u4vk065bnXKQGQFG1NavYU9nGZr9rr50qWrCMCHESmFXASA6Uk/s320/xxx.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Jeff Johnson on <b><i>XXX</i></b> with me and Aaron Sandlow spotting and SB strongman Robby Robinson watching in the foreground. A <span style="font-size: xx-small;">crux h</span>airy mantel a<span style="font-size: xx-small;">waits </span>at the top<span style="font-size: xx-small;"> and<span style="font-size: xx-small;"> there's only one pad down there <span style="font-size: xx-small;">kids, cause that's how the Swimming Hole <span style="font-size: xx-small;">Crew </span>rolls</span></span>.</span> Every piece of stone that you see in this phot<span style="font-size: xx-small;">o doesn't exist anymore.</span> Pretty sure the late Mike Reardon took this photo probably winter/spring <span style="font-size: xx-small;">2002/</span>2003.</span></td></tr>
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On January 10th the storms had peaked in a big way and in doing so swept away virtually every single boulder in the creek. Big ones, small ones, large chunks of the sculpted sandstone canyon walls. All gone. One of the coolest and hardest "water problems", Johnson's brilliant "Aquaman" had been entirely calved off. Boulders bigger than my house were simply not there anymore. One of the only boulders that survived the deluge, the Wave Boulder, had been flipped upside down, turned around and swept downstream where it remains to this day (and home to a few nice problems I might add). The Swimming Hole as it was, was no more.<br />
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Our crew went in as a group in March and had a sort of "eulogy" for the place we all spent so much time in and had so much fun. I still agree with what I said in Ocean's 11, you don't have to climb, get drunk or get laid...it's a magical place no matter what. But to be honest, since it was swept away I have returned a total of twice.<b> In eight years</b>. It's too weird to see it the way it is now and the rest of the old crew is no different<span style="font-size: xx-small;"> <span style="font-size: small;">than myself</span></span>.<br />
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To finalize: This post is relevant 8 years later for another reason. Rumor has it that the Tar Creek access is being slated for closure because of overuse and vandalism. This is sad. Back when we were going there all the time there was no trash. People came in, partied, camped, left their shit and we'd take it out. Trash was never there for more than a week. <b>EVERY ONE</b> of our crew carried a trash bag. When a few complete shithead fuckwad cocksmokers tagged a few boulders in the late 90s, Johnson bought supplies and went out and cleaned it off himself. He even contacted Fillmore police to see<span style="font-size: small;"> if </span>they recognized the tags. We fucking loved that place so much and I feel bad that we haven't been there to watch over her in the last 8 years.<br />
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But the stewards have to be the current users. Climbers don't frequent The Swimming Hole like in the old days, but they do frequent other areas and something can be learned. <b>Carry a trash bag everywhere you climb</b>. That fingertape in the dirt, <b>pick it up</b>. The cigarette butt your buddy just flicked into the dirt or the bottle cap he popped off into the bushes, <b>make the sorry fucker look for it and put it in his pocket</b>. Take care of these places. Period.<br />
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<a href="https://vimeo.com/55731941" target="_blank">I made this video back in 2005 and compiled all the footage I had of as many boulder problems as I had recorded and made this for The Swimming Hole Crew<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>. </i></span><span style="font-size: small;">I didn't tote a video camera down there much and when I did it was usually on solo mission<span style="font-size: small;">s which explains why there's so much footage of me</span></span>. I never had a problem putting a camera on a tripod and shooting myself, but rarely was able to stick a camera in someone else's face. Talk about narcissism! But I'm glad I did what I did because there's something of a historical log now. In homage to Jeff and Paul and and the rest of the crew, no ratings are given in the video. Some problems are very easy, some are very, very hard. They were all great, every one.</a><br />
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Every single problem shown in this video no longer exists.<br />
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Post-script: The ultimate irony of The Swimming Hole comes from the closing pages of Ocean's 11 when I quoted Jeff Johnson who said, "These boulders are like tombstones, they'll be here long after we're gone." He actually said that and we actually believed it. But in reality, we are the tombstones.<br />
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<u><i><b>More on The Swimming Hole:</b></i></u><br />
<a href="http://www.king-dino.com/sh/sh.html">http://www.king-dino.com/sh/sh.htm</a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178778203055937203">l</a><br />
<a href="http://www.climbing.com/news/storms-destroy-bouldering-paradise/">http://www.climbing.com/news/storms-destroy-bouldering-paradise/</a><br />
<br />bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-53375411438587941882012-12-16T16:22:00.001-08:002012-12-16T23:25:27.452-08:00One from the VHS VaultI get several hundred requests a day for more quality content, so who am I to deny my beloved readers. Here's the epitome of VCR to VCR tape editing, a mini-climbing video I made back in 1998 during the last days of The Castle. Now digitized and available to my legions of King-Dino fans in blistering High Definition and Hi-Fi audio, here it is: <a href="https://vimeo.com/55698269" target="_blank">Santa Maria 1997-1998</a>.<br />
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<br />bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-24212392903700527442012-12-09T14:04:00.000-08:002012-12-13T12:14:14.163-08:00What's In A Name?A recent question over on <a href="http://www.mountainproject.com/v/she-didnt-want-me-to-do-it/107892761" target="_blank">Mountain Project</a> about the name of a local boulder problem got me to thinking about the the meaning/history of some others names around the area. Here's some off the top of my head that may have had people wondering, "Where the hell did that come from?"<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Paul Dusatko at the business of <i>She Made Me Do It</i>.</span></td></tr>
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The one that started the discussion was Rick Fredland's awesome traverse, <b><i>She Made Me Do It</i></b> at Skofield Park and also the sister problems, <i>She Had Nothing To Do With It</i> and <i>She Didn't Want Me To Do It</i>, both at Lizard's Mouth. The 'she' at issue was Rick's girlfriend at the time. He'd been working The Skofield traverse for a while without success and one day after some drama with the lady, went out there frustrated and promptly sent. The Lizard's Mouth problems were casual plays on the naming of the first one (and he didn't even name the last one). No sordid story here, he eventually married her and they continue to live happily ever.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Thomi Adank on the first ascent of <i>The Dancing Outlaw</i>.</span></td></tr>
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<b><i>The Dancing Outlaw</i></b> at The Brickyard got put up in the late 90s when we were watching the Indie documentary about West Virginia's Jesco White, called, you guessed it, <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0101655/" target="_blank">The Dancing Outlaw</a>. If you've never seen this movie, stop what you're doing and find it on the internet somewhere. There's lots of snippets on Youtube as well. We were so fascinated with this flick that we had it playing near daily for a while at the house. Also, this is one of those problems that had a name before an ascent, I started calling it <i>The Dancing Outlaw</i> pretty much right off the bat, it just fit. And since my good friend Thomi had scooped the prize of the boulder while I was on the disabled list, I had to settle for putting up the right side version of <i>The Dancing Outlaw</i>, which I named after a line that Jesco says during one of his stories in the movie, <i><b>Double Super Buzz</b></i>. I'd try to explain it, but it's much easier to see/hear, so skip to 1:38: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FffzU7F6Lc">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FffzU7F6Lc/</a>.<br />
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Also, The Dancing Outlaw boulder was originally called the Bluegrass Boulder, primarily because I was climbing with Jonathan Kingston a lot back then and he liked bluegrass music. <i>Dancing Outlaw </i>was too classic a problem though and it just took over the name of the boulder since that's how things work. Anyways, that's why all the old problems (that don't involve Jesco) are names of, or lines from, bluegrass songs: <i>Old and In the Way</i>, <i>I Ain't Broke But I'm Badly Bent</i>, <i>Lonesome Pine</i>, etc. The mega-classic and wonderfully named <i><b>Smooth Criminal</b></i> (after the Michael Jackson song) went up a bit after all these, courtesy of the dynamic duo of Neil Crancer and Dave Hunt. I was psyched they kept a sort-of theme going with the Outlaw/Criminal element. Genius name for a genius boulder problem.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>See Ya at The Yard, Meat</i>. kingston images</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Unknown attempting <i>Grotesque Old Woman</i>, Friday 12/<span style="font-size: xx-small;">7</span>/12.</span></td></tr>
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<b><i>See Ya at The Yard, Meat </i></b>is a line from the only Kevin Costner movie ever made that was worth watching, <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0094812/" target="_blank">Bull Durham</a>, except nobody seems to call it that but me (generally referred to as <i>The Font Problem</i>). <b><i>Science is A Cruel Mistress</i></b> is a line from the opening scene of the old Castle favorite <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0095250/" target="_blank">The Big Blue</a>. No significance here, I just thought it's a funny line. When I first started working <b><i>All Mod Cons</i></b> I realized it had a little bit of everything: cave, slab, kneebar, toehook, heelhook, campus move, crimps, a pinch, slopers, even a mono. All Mod Cons is a British slang term for "All Modern Conveniences". It also happens to be the title of one of my favorite albums by British punk/mod band <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Jam" target="_blank">The Jam</a> when I was a kid. <i><b>Grotesque Old Woman</b></i> and <b><i>Mister Witty</i></b> are just Leube-isms and Austrian traveler Chris "The Normal Guy" Leube has left his mark on numerous bouldering areas around the globe with identically named problems so you can always tell he was there. Bishop boulderers will likely recognize both names from problems at The Happies. Chris also lent his name to one of my all-time favorite problem names,<i> Leubering With Intent</i>, a crimpy V8 at The Sad Boulders that he projected for a bit too long before Wills Young swooped in to nab the FA and coined it with its brilliant moniker. Wills has always had a pretty good knack for naming stuff.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Dr. Kristin Collins attempting <i>King Dinosaur</i>. kingston images</span></td></tr>
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Over at the Lizard's Mouth, stacks of problems went up during what was called Martini Summer of 1996, and the brunt of them were coined after film noir references. <b><i>The High Hat</i></b> is a line from the Coen brothers' finest film, <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100150/" target="_blank">Miller's Crossing</a>. <i>Phyllis Diedrickson</i>, the femme fatale in <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0036775/" target="_blank">Double Indemnity</a> and <i>Kathy Moffat</i> the femme fatale from <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0039689/" target="_blank">Out of The Past</a>. <b><i>King Dinosaur</i></b> was a favorite <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mystery_Science_Theater_3000" target="_blank">Mystery Science Theater 3000</a> movie while <i>We Brought the Atom Bomb, I Think Now Would be A Good Time to Use It</i> is a line from <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0048256/" target="_blank">King Dinosaur</a>. The Dena problems: <i>Dena in the Hole, Dena Goes to Gulf City, Steady Diet of Dena, Vamp, Ketel One and Gordon's</i> all derived from a certain dark haired seductress who tended bar and poured martinis for the boys at The Blue Agave. <i>Serious as a Deacon</i> (if I recall correctly) is a line from <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051036/" target="_blank">Sweet Smell of Success</a>, but was also one of many lines poached from various films in the brilliant homage to film noir that Steve Edwards and Todd Mei made in 1998, <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0205152/" target="_blank">Icarus Descending</a>. The best problem busting out of the Meilee Cave:<i> Faded, Fat, Greedy Women</i> is a line from <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0036342/" target="_blank">Shadow of a Doubt</a>.<br />
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I could write pages about names of the problems at our dearly missed <a href="http://www.king-dino.com/sh/sh.html" target="_blank">Swimming Hole</a>. Jeff Johnson has always taken pride in giving proper names to proper ascents and couple that with the perennial jokester Paul Anderson and you had an area stacked with great names. <b><i>Entry Fee</i></b> was the most obvious line on the first major freestanding boulder that marked the beginning of the Swimming Hole bouldering (<i>AJP</i> was 1/4 mile closer upstream but not really 'the beginning' of the real concentration of boulders). It was said that <b>everyone </b>must pay their <i>Entry Fee</i>, and it wasn't cheap, a delicate bit of 5.11 climbing on absolutely perfect stone. <b><i>The Wave</i></b> was a perfectly smooth boulder with minimal features and a mini-dihedral leading up a curling face, <i>Microwave </i>was a miniature version around the corner of the big boy.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>The Heckler</i>. Johnson spotting, Reardon shooting video.</span></td></tr>
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The <i>Texas Flake Boulder</i>, aptly named for the enormous detached flake shaped almost exactly like the left edge of Texas, had the ultra-thin Paul Anderson testpiece, <i>The Heckler</i>, named after the prodigious amounts of shit-talking that frequented Swimming Hole sessions (Paul was and is the master). On the corner was the devious <i>Troublemaker</i> and the sister problem <i>Makin' Trouble</i>, both are regarding Wills and if I remember correctly, <i>Troublemaker</i> was Johnson directed at Wills, and <i>Makin' Trouble</i> was Wills firing back at Johnson. Genius.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Thomi trying to slam dunk <i>Ma</i><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>gic Johnson</i>.</span></span></td></tr>
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One of the greatest problems that ever existed on the planet, Jeff Johnson's<b><i> Magic Johnson</i></b>, was so perfectly named because it was such a classic double entendre. Firstly, the move up to the sloper was a massive palm open slap as if you were slam-dunking a basketball and secondly, success seemed so implausible that it was like a magic trick when it worked. The 'magic' theme carried on to the other problems on the boulder, <i>Smoke and Mirrors</i>, which was less magic, and just brutally hard, and the easiest of the tri-fecta, <i>Hocus Pocus</i>. Also in the area that we lovingly referred to as <b>The Pit of Power</b>, was <i>Meateater</i>, a very high and very committing arete that Jeff named after vying for the first ascent with Wills Young. The story was that Wills was eating nuts and berries (or something like that) while out bouldering and Jeff thought it was kind of funny. Jeff and Wills weren't exactly seeing 'eye-to-eye' at the time, shall we say. (It should be noted that Wills was not and as far as I know still isn't a vegetarian). Starting around the corner from <b>The Pit </b>sits <i>The Handicapper</i>, named so for obvious reasons. As far as I know the veracity of the name was never tested, you either didn't get very far off the ground or you sent. Left of <i>The Handicapper</i> started <i>The Mad Cow Traverse</i>, which along the same time as some tension between Jeff and Wills, Jeff got first and coined it as a dig on the British-raised Young (Mad Cow disease in England was big news back then).<br />
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.........I could go on about the Swimming Hole, but damn it gets depressing to think that everything I mentioned here is gone. And hell, with two blog posts in two weeks I don't want to get carried away.bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-77269954273274415762012-12-02T21:26:00.000-08:002012-12-03T18:22:03.547-08:00Revisiting Psyche<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiot4Y4RRslw_1ZAsFdIflsgX8PX-amVEOH7zA46oRnzErEswbaq9ghhNcl-D8AaeUWTmFRKcsz9b1IMKdgHU15CcBsohYABPSrgtNrywSlDJWqfVt9gqkSdIclPs2lQ0nJzYAGtLOgdZg/s1600/bobsguide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiot4Y4RRslw_1ZAsFdIflsgX8PX-amVEOH7zA46oRnzErEswbaq9ghhNcl-D8AaeUWTmFRKcsz9b1IMKdgHU15CcBsohYABPSrgtNrywSlDJWqfVt9gqkSdIclPs2lQ0nJzYAGtLOgdZg/s320/bobsguide.jpg" width="198" /></a> <br />
Since I haven't posted anything in over a year and since it's been pouring down rain for a few days, here we go.<br />
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Today I picked up my old copy of Edwards' Santa Barbara Bouldering (1997) and thumbed through it for the first time in over a decade. Marked on the inside cover with my name and The Castle phone number should I lose it, it's quite a walk down memory lane. The book is bound together with a rubber band, torn up and marked up with scribbled field notes and comments on nearly every page. At my current state of climbing psyche, it's hard to believe how psyched I once was, spending every rest day walking through the hills looking for more stuff. <br />
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One of the more interesting pages is one of the maps to The Brickyard (map 2) which covers the area from <i>The Ant Boulder</i>, called The Cryptozoology Area, to over past <i>The Soot Patrol Boulder</i>, called The Backyard. There's lots of good stuff in these scribblings, most importantly what would become most of the problems on <i>The Dancing Outlaw</i> boulder, noted on the next page as "<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">overhanging boulder with 2 or 3 very nice hard problems...needs some good cleaning and a tree trim.</span>"<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikaOflyjKdrhlp_fMK1pw51dte_7-HcTX336SJqnvMT5TWkMEbkoUzhwfEED1SIHoB_dn94mD1NiuMA5fWXk6_GMSTO1yyPCPsx-HHQN01Sb4qULEFndE6wxK8wGg3DTF_LXPe0KikvlU/s1600/yard_map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikaOflyjKdrhlp_fMK1pw51dte_7-HcTX336SJqnvMT5TWkMEbkoUzhwfEED1SIHoB_dn94mD1NiuMA5fWXk6_GMSTO1yyPCPsx-HHQN01Sb4qULEFndE6wxK8wGg3DTF_LXPe0KikvlU/s640/yard_map.jpg" width="500" /> </a></div>
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Starting at the upper left of the map, in my notes "<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Behind the cave boulder</span>" would mean behind <i>The Soot Patrol Boulder</i>. To get one oriented, problems 108 and 109 are <i>Watch the Dog</i> and <i>Soot Patrol</i>, and in my notes, problem c) "<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">2 or 3 hard cave problems</span>" became <i>Dancing Outlaw</i>, etc., d) <i>Smooth Criminal</i>, and noted as "<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">nice problem</span>" a) <i>Old & In the Way</i>, a problem I still think is a great moderate. Moving over to <i>The Soot Patrol</i> boulder, problems 110 and 111 are <i>Mister Witty</i> and <i>Clean the Grill</i> respectively, between them I noted "<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">ss cave to crimps</span>", which became <i>All Mod Cons</i>. The face around the corner between 111 and 112 (<i>Draw or Call</i>) I wrote in "slab", which became <i>Science is a Cruel Mistress</i>. Speaking of <i>Draw or Call</i>, next to its entry a couple pages later I wrote down "<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Fucking hairy! R or X rating for sure</span>". I've done <i>Draw or Call </i>exactly twice and broke holds off of it both times. It's high and it's choss. One of the times I snapped a hold off and hit the ground tumbling back to the boulder behind just barely missing conking the shit out of my head, barely grazing it on the rock. I remember Ratso running over to me and licking my face to make sure I was ok. The problem may have cleaned up by now, but I'll certainly never do it again.</div>
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Other interesting notes in The Brickyard section are <i>Grotesque Old Woman</i> (problem 89 on the map), which Steve gave 1 star, I emphatically wrote "<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">FANTASTIC!! ***</span>" followed by "<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">sit-start maybe V8/V9?</span>". The sit-start turned in at a much harder V10 although I remember Wills dispatching of it very shortly after we showed it to him.</div>
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Also, many people don't know that <i>Mister Witty</i> was once a 3 star V5 in its original rendition. There were originally two large plates at the lip of the overhang making everything significantly easier to get on the slab, not to mention there used to be a big knob to grab once you got your feet up. Well, first the left plate broke (it was still V5 but a bit harder) and then the right hand plate broke, leaving you with those measley crimps that exist to this day to negotiate your way over the lip. My first note is "<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">hasn't gone since another hold broke</span>". The guy who broke the second lip hold wanted to glue it back on but I expressed my distaste for that idea and we kept trying it. My second note (too bad I didn't put dates on things) reads "<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">V7 now, very nice!</span>". The top knob broke a couple years later, but didn't affect the grade enough to change it. It's a great problem still, but I remember the original V5 <i>Mister Witty</i> with all holds intact being better.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlcpQSzxv4_qYhp1Inv_TkodF4XJN1tEZlbXJiRcbPJsof_683Z5N_dQNQndSCgqoAa70G0wEjs6JApRgCnjvDI7-nbPFEanqDSCfnllpPeaOGSEHSGed31NBMXiuEGQUIHEC5fam-BG0/s1600/mtnair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlcpQSzxv4_qYhp1Inv_TkodF4XJN1tEZlbXJiRcbPJsof_683Z5N_dQNQndSCgqoAa70G0wEjs6JApRgCnjvDI7-nbPFEanqDSCfnllpPeaOGSEHSGed31NBMXiuEGQUIHEC5fam-BG0/s320/mtnair.jpg" width="201" /></a>As a final note on Steve's fabulous original SB bouldering guide, I have two copies on my bookshelf. The copy pictured above is one of the first that came out of the box when Steve received them from the printer, and the copy shown to the right is most definitely the last one sold on the retail market. I walked into Mountain Air one day, which was the last place that still had copies to sell (I was doing the distribution for Steve at the the time), and they had a single copy left. So I bought it.</div>
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bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-30734560487264566622011-08-10T23:00:00.000-07:002012-11-20T12:05:18.897-08:00Santa Barbara Climbing History in Print: V<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Note</span><span style="font-weight: bold;">:</span> Recently I've spent some time compiling and scanning as much printed medium that I could find that covers climbing in the Santa Barbara area. Originally intended to be one post, I've broken it up into what will be several, with some [I think] cool stuff that appeared in books, magazines, and newspaper articles over the years.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: arial; font-size: 130%; font-weight: bold;">Part V: 1997-2003</span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br /></span></div>
<a href="http://www.king-dino.com/combined_castle.pdf"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5639449018953747362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWeoIj5Y_pKylotMAjKLsunT3RWu_pLFEhLOvHjKt6XHAFecC9H8gcMaoTyAJRMW5bdbgCOEjlavoADyiN4XVI8-MVApxjGeM0GJwBHPhh3husT2MqPHVUF1C7Eev2aocAiZi7K5gIflM/s400/puke.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 173px; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; width: 190px;" /></a><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Kings of The Castle - Climbing - November 1997</span></span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">Wills wrote this short piece in winter 1997 in Climbing's old section that they had highlighting home walls. Ahhhh, the good old days. You know, back when Climbing Magazine was actually worth reading (although on its last legs).<br /><br />This one brings back fond memories, showing a little slice of life into what The Castle was at that time, which from the picture that they printed (unbelievably) was bordering on unbridled chaos. I recall that the editors wouldn't let Wills print any of the better pictures because no one was 'climbing' in them, so they printed the one that had Arvind the Maniac on the Stairmaster wall, while the Pukester attacked a burning couch (which ended up in the swimming pool) with a pair of garden shears.<br /><br />Like I've said many times before, it all looks a bit nuts in hindsight, but at the time everything seemed perfectly normal...</span></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5HW_UyEMk_EGJNVRkuJrNR0dpPLglXAgi_zSZRlIcBnGkJEJsisrhqJ2X3IJNx8YIpbeobWBCi5XJTdyYJ3ZDPsu44nqLQlOtHFI1XVhFkqxbliKDU1J65fKyWi9LqQwyQ0pxHcEh-qo/s1600/enlightenment.jpg" style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592672839101686434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5HW_UyEMk_EGJNVRkuJrNR0dpPLglXAgi_zSZRlIcBnGkJEJsisrhqJ2X3IJNx8YIpbeobWBCi5XJTdyYJ3ZDPsu44nqLQlOtHFI1XVhFkqxbliKDU1J65fKyWi9LqQwyQ0pxHcEh-qo/s400/enlightenment.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 382px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 250px;" /></span></a></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Enlightenment Ridge Guide - Reese Martin - Spring 199</span></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%; font-weight: bold;">8</span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">In 1998, prolific Central Coast developer Reese Martin put out a guide to the Enlightenment Ridge Area of Pine Mountain. A little odd, certainly, to put out a guide for an area within an area, but it was where Reese was spending a lot of his time at the time, so that's what it is.<br /><br />What it also is, is some of the worst mapping I've ever seen. While Steve Edwards' maps to the Brickyard and Lizard's Mouth were, ahem, not good, Reese went one better in confusion out here at Pine Mountain. No doubt Reese definitely had prodigious talents, but cartography was not even close to being one of them.<br /><br />After Steve put out his Falcon guide in 2000, which had overlooked a lot of Reese's Pine Mountain information and re-named a number of problems, I went back and tried to set the record straight, which was a complete nightmare because of the atrocious maps. After many long hours of walking the area and trying to figure out what Reese had called what and what Steve had called what, I feel fairly confident that I got it [mostly] correct, but Kee-Rist it wasn't easy.<br /><br />This guide was put out as an extra in the old SoCal mag "Mother Rock", which sort of carried on where Allez had left off and I believe remained in print from 1996 until 1999 or so??<br /><br />On a side note: Reese Martin, a prolific first ascentionist and tireless worker for the Access Fund and climbing related issues, as well as a charming ladies man and all-around good guy, passed away in a paragliding accident in 2004. Reese, shown below on the far right in black, at </span><span style="font-size: 100%; font-style: italic;">The Players Ball 1997</span><span style="font-size: 100%;">.</span><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 100%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcD_XgfJ-iPJw27Ij6mT2bdr_1tuitwaWOktNN_EMggsVd9UPk6rCzyKPYqAjF9qXeVBHZG8OcoKEs5w6zMkO8-LyDc1QW2uoykYT49Lc0BvtEuSMjCQyhgIYCymxtFTUWTLw8ZEA0Ifw/s1600/reese.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5639459406421871602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcD_XgfJ-iPJw27Ij6mT2bdr_1tuitwaWOktNN_EMggsVd9UPk6rCzyKPYqAjF9qXeVBHZG8OcoKEs5w6zMkO8-LyDc1QW2uoykYT49Lc0BvtEuSMjCQyhgIYCymxtFTUWTLw8ZEA0Ifw/s400/reese.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 268px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a></span><span style="font-size: 78%;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-style: italic;">(from l-r: Steve "Emmanuel Overdrive" Edwards, unknown dame Edwards picked up at The Agave the night before - </span><span style="font-family: arial;">"We're having a party tomorrow, you should come."</span><span style="font-family: arial; font-style: italic;">, Shandor "Condor" Madjar, The Bruce, a hidden Reed Bartlett (in (p)leather and (p)ink pants), and Reese Martin)</span></span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/pine.pdf"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626436179169252530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRSWlliabeKYjsOGW7KjLohvsH8BlemHBL07pVXBuwLVnFPZvUyL2_mE-nrxBWS2yyV37xDNokcN81nDG51XlzV1dRWAfoFH9nF-1XJn1aGYhylzW3PbA772Bh_0KibGe22KcoiJqluYY/s400/pine.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 197px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 216px;" /></a></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pine Mountain Bouldering - Climbing - May 1998</span></span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%;">One of the best magazine style mini-guides I've ever seen was this one for Pine Mountain that Wills Young put together when he was living in Ojai and doing very little except for scouting new problems and climbing his ass off.<br /><br />This thing covered about 7 pages of the May issue encompassing a couple hundred boulder problems, most of the ones that people are still climbing on exclusively today (meaning the plums had been picked by a VERY motivated crew). It's true that there's a lot more bouldering out on Pine Mountain still, but it's also true that you could take this 13 year old mini-guide out there and come away 100% satisfied with what is truly one of my all-time favorite areas.<br /><br />Another bit of trivia is the notation of <span style="font-style: italic;">Whiplash</span>, which was likely at the time one of the top 5 hardest problems in California. Wills' original rating for the problem was V11, as it was logged in the Edwards guide to Santa Barbara Bouldering. Knowing that this mini-guide was going to see a MUCH larger audience, Wills chose to bump the grade of <span style="font-style: italic;">Whiplash</span> down to V10 in a show of humility. Sadly, these days most climbers would bump their first ascent ratings "up" (probably "way up"), and never "down". After shutting down all takers, including myself for over 5 years, I put <span style="font-style: italic;">Whiplash</span> back to it's original V11 rating when I put out Ocean's 11. And I might add that it has seen VERY few confirmed ascents in the last 13 years.<br /></span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br /></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-_eX6n_MNvXWM5_NoC3GojtXjyLVOIkQZCHVXol2YUKZvgoHQQ8vx8rn9jS-gYS-igKuTmNIP48kCexYZ_tcapRV4jDRv3IsoSI75U7X0gi53C7D3-UnPfgUCpTfzDsGGWhieRanMZYA/s1600/ClimbingSB.jpg"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592671982980899058" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-_eX6n_MNvXWM5_NoC3GojtXjyLVOIkQZCHVXol2YUKZvgoHQQ8vx8rn9jS-gYS-igKuTmNIP48kCexYZ_tcapRV4jDRv3IsoSI75U7X0gi53C7D3-UnPfgUCpTfzDsGGWhieRanMZYA/s400/ClimbingSB.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 371px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 250px;" /></span></a></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />Rock Climbing Santa Barbara and Ventura<br />- Steve Edwards - October 2000</span></span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I've already expressed my distaste for these hideous Falcon guides. They remind me of some weirdo Communist book publisher where everything looks exactly the same and is homogenized down to the last dot. I hate the way they look on my bookshelf and I hate what climbers have allowed them to do to the climbing guidebook publishing game. A lot of the older climbing guides had a shitload of 'flair' for lack of a btter word. I miss that. I miss it a lot. And then there came these big publisher house sanitized guides with 300 pages of enormous areas of coverage that I can pretty much wipe my ass with. Pffft.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">That said, Steve put out the best Falcon guide I've seen because he somehow managed to get them to allow a little of himself in it (read: a little, had he self-published it would've been WAAAY better).<br /><br />The other funny thing about this book is that in the 13 years it's been out, I don't think I've ever used it. My copy still looks like the day I got it. By the time this book came out I had done the old Santa Barbara lines I was interested in and had switched to bouldering nearly full time and was already working on my own book.</span><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/crouch_1998.pdf" style="font-family: arial;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5639464929041073554" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRbFcuGyHuV9QV91xLIlZBzNrhq3BjKbt58HA22E0wR78QjAC-LfD82uC1-5QlfTvNXqSHMiU-ZI2J9up85VWHfEKp3_0eETkt3tFHnhF6fO2-sFbT_mQBzo5OhupiY-9NSR266hDgfjw/s400/manny.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 250px; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; width: 132px;" /></a></span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold;">Climber's Learn A Leg Up - Greg Crouch - SB News Press - Fall 1998?</span></span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-family: arial;">This was just a short newspaper article that I came across in some stuff that I had cut out and couldn't resist revisiting it. Written by Santa Barbara native cum bitchin' outdoor adventure author and badass Patagonia sufferer Greg Crouch, it's your standard puff piece to get the masses psyched on climbing. The genius of this piece is that when Greg went to Goleta Valley Athletic Club to visit their newly built climbing wall, the guy at the desk (who knew very little about climbing and didn't know Greg was friends with Steve) kept telling him that "Steve Edwards runs the climbing program here at GVAC and he is a <span style="font-size: 100%;">world renowned climber". The brilliance of this didn't escape Greg, who mentioned it a couple of times in the article, including the photo caption at right. I think at the time, after we all got in some good-natured jabs at Steve "Mr. World Famous", Steve replied, "Well, I guess I know </span></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%; font-style: italic;">people</span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%;"> from all over the world, right?" </span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Ocean's 11: Bouldering Around Santa Barbara<br />- Some Jackass Wrote It - April 2003</span></span><span style="font-size: 100%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD9kylAlQqPYFQv-GNi31lnmCwKliPdUTXmADxAhFyDklfbgKveGOzPLtDUGbfr4xTM9zfUeQsX2ZMWB6VD6MkATluxeAH8rBsbaKPECAfzU1CvwRG0CRKOXpt0uAnBV6t827ayIy4uxw/s1600/Oceans11.jpg" style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592672907297762562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD9kylAlQqPYFQv-GNi31lnmCwKliPdUTXmADxAhFyDklfbgKveGOzPLtDUGbfr4xTM9zfUeQsX2ZMWB6VD6MkATluxeAH8rBsbaKPECAfzU1CvwRG0CRKOXpt0uAnBV6t827ayIy4uxw/s400/Oceans11.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 370px; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; width: 250px;" /></span></a><br /></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%;">I'm not going to say much on this one, for obvious reasons. And I'm sure that every critical comme</span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%;">nt I've given on someone else's project could likely apply to O11.<br /><br />There are things I'd do different on it now, but overall I am s</span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">till pleased with how this book turned out and I remain quite proud of it. For me, it was mostly a little time-capsule detailing a pretty good few years of </span><span style="font-size: 100%;">climbing history in Santa Barbara. Carrying on the SoCal tradition of "hot chick on not-so good route" on the cover, along with the gratuitous inclusion of the best dog that ever lived on the cover shot with her, and also more photos of a dog inside the book than of any of the humans, how could I go wrong?<br /><br />The question now is, what's next, and who does it, and how?<br /><br />I hate to think that physical guidebooks are a thing of the past, but that may be the case. Since I only sell about 5 copies a year, I have enough O11 in stock to last for a while and it's still relevant, but certainly not "up-to-date". Stacks of stuff has been done, new areas have been discovered. Hopefully someone will step up and document their own little time-capsule in some way, because I, for one, would like to read about it.</span></span>bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-71029211302912530822011-07-06T21:02:00.000-07:002011-07-06T21:40:19.310-07:00Santa Barbara Climbing History In Print: IV<span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Note</span>: Recently I've spent some time compiling and scanning as much printed medium that I could find that covers climbing in the Santa Barbara area. Originally intended to be one post, I've broken it up into what will be several, with some [I think] cool stuff that appeared in books, magazines, and newspaper articles over the years.</span></span><p style="text-align: center;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Part IV: 1995- 1997</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></p><br /><a style="font-family: arial;" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqzKFlxQPynyK_R9Lv4bQMpgI1xlDXij-2gjva_mapVvIFRUsfeR6S5eggJhowxqyp-bUj27_80T_bmAN3YKPh-aZSj4G2XFLlv7hGdpczgSDOmlWiaFyMkNVcWv2-GkEvup75ZpFG6r0/s1600/SoCalBouldering2.jpg"><span style="font-family:arial;"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; width: 250px; float: right; height: 370px; cursor: pointer;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592673022192432578" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqzKFlxQPynyK_R9Lv4bQMpgI1xlDXij-2gjva_mapVvIFRUsfeR6S5eggJhowxqyp-bUj27_80T_bmAN3YKPh-aZSj4G2XFLlv7hGdpczgSDOmlWiaFyMkNVcWv2-GkEvup75ZpFG6r0/s400/SoCalBouldering2.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">SoCal Bouldering Guide - 2nd Edition - 1995</span><br />1995 brought along a revised and much expanded <span style="font-style: italic;">SoCal Bouldering</span> guide from Craig Fry, including topos and select problem listings for Lizard's Mouth, The Brickyard and Painted Cave. Also included was a short write-up with some excellent photos of the The Swimming Hole, which also garnered the coveted cover shot showing SoCal bouldering legend Jeff Johnson on <span style="font-style: italic;">Shock Wave</span> (a photo erroneously identified in the credits as Paul Anderson, although everyone knows Paul never had that much hair). In a mighty coup, Jeff also nabbed the back cover shot of the guide as well, busting out <span style="font-style: italic;">Streetcar</span> in J-Tree.<br /><br />Another guide dear to my heart, before moving to Santa Barbara this was the book I had in hand when I went bouldering up at The Brickyard for the first time in 1996 (I'd been up to Painted Cave and Lizard's Mouth the year prior on another road trip). While a topo of The Yard was provided in the text, it was, shall we say, not so helpful. Luckily for me, I met two locals bouldering there (Steve Edwards and Chris Leube) which made things a bit easier to find.<br /><br />One unfortunate part of the book is the photograph of "The Brickyard Technique", where the climber 'clips in' to avoid the consequences of frightening topouts. Particularly offensive to bouldering in general, in that the Brickyard chapter is followed by The Swimming Hole, where pretty much the best landing out there was higher and flatter than anything The Brickyard had to offer for spice. Luckily this "Brickyard Technique" never caught on.<br /></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><img src="file:///C:/Users/Bob/Documents/Magazine%20Articles/Tar.jpg" alt="" /><a href="http://king-dino.com/tar.pdf"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 216px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4icUEj-Ew-cm-4wHVRN9yf59d7wNPgv21x5ztJtFZGgb0D0P3d0UgCwYkBEeNFJHxezS6rVCAoAy1x0VJjLCH9cON18B2Kjd0SfepUHONAWT4ZxKUlEJ5sLcDQnO1nes_yubyh3-Fz8/s400/Tar.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626435465893407522" border="0" /></a></span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Rock and Ice - Tar Creek Bouldering by Wills Young - January 1997</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Next up, Wills put out this nice mini-guide to The Swimming Hole <span style="font-style: italic;">aka </span>Tar Creek in the winter of '97. Due to some, shall we say, personality conflicts between Wills and another Swimming Hole developer Jeff Johnson, it's not the most complete guide that it could have been. Jeff was generally anti-publicity about The Swimming Hole (he truly didn't either anticipate or welcome the interest that Sherman's book provided to Tar Creek), and since Jeff was the longest running local of the area, he essentially refused to offer information about many things that had/had not been done. Because of that, some names are incorrect, and some problems that had names aren't named, but it's a nice little guide to get you there nonetheless, and Wills did his best to sway the masses with the tales of the epic hike, wild animals, horrific landings, etc.</span><br /><br /></span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Santa Barbara Bouldering - Steve Edwards - 1997</span><br />Finally, the first "real" bouldering guide</span><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9jNhiP3glEmp23ii-HjnJZpSqwA8fMd7ycQUt8ox5QWOm4RqkJLtgPRvllHeeD0LHYppCWKNjNT0pWWBvoHM3ht-hTqfMgcy3uny7QKKUFhVvvyv77EDY_smvZ5c13YdESgAT7wcEec/s1600/SBBouldering.jpg"><span style="font-family:arial;"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; width: 250px; float: right; height: 376px; cursor: pointer;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592672772552844466" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9jNhiP3glEmp23ii-HjnJZpSqwA8fMd7ycQUt8ox5QWOm4RqkJLtgPRvllHeeD0LHYppCWKNjNT0pWWBvoHM3ht-hTqfMgcy3uny7QKKUFhVvvyv77EDY_smvZ5c13YdESgAT7wcEec/s400/SBBouldering.jpg" border="0" /></span></a></span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" > to the area was Steve Edwards' excellent <span style="font-style: italic;">Santa Barbara Bouldering</span>, which covered in detail for the first time, The Lizard's Mouth, Painted Cave, The Brickyard, Red Rock, Westmont College Boulder and Pine Mountain (access issues at the time prevented publication of The Swimming Hole). Most notable of the guide was the cover shot is of a guy who has only bouldered outdoors a handful of times, and I'm not talking about the legendary dog who's standing on the summit (a 2 year old Ratso). The boulderer in question is [a much younger than now] Phil Requist, who on the very few times I have gotten him out bouldering, have seen him dispatch with some damn hard things (I recall him flashing <span style="font-style: italic;">Grotesque Old Woman </span>at The Brickyard). Pretty sure he fired Red Rock's awesome <span style="font-style: italic;">The Seven Year Plan </span>very quickly that day of the photo.<br /><br />The book itself is another of those kind that I love. Obviously put together on a shoestring budget but with a lot of care and stacks of work put into it. It was also put out at the time when I was so rabid about bouldering and living in Santa Barbara that I did almost nothing else but climb.<br /><br />As much as I love it though, the maps to the more difficult areas of the Brickyard and The Lizard's Mouth completely blow. Steve is a man of many talents, topography was never one of them. I still have my original copy of this guide, where I was trying to do every single problem in it (came remarkably close), but there's a lot of notations of "Can't find it, doesn't make sense." Of course, then you get Steve out there with you one day and he shows you where stuff is and it makes perfect sense, but that's not really the point of a guidebook, to have the author standing there guiding you. Right?</span><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /></span>bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-32240326682090843072011-05-22T19:13:00.000-07:002011-06-01T20:34:33.532-07:00Santa Barbara Climbing History In Print: III<span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Note</span>: Recently I've spent some time compiling and scanning as much printed medium that I could find that covers climbing in the Santa Barbara area. Originally intended to be one post, I've broken it up into what will be several, with some [I think] cool stuff that appeared in books, magazines, and newspaper articles over the years.</span></span><p style="text-align: center;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Part III: 1990-1995</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Skt6fE-CFc93-Gi2CSqyHenxPVK0fySo_ZUNkjZIG59kN4LaCqePuDbKbDzakXvhcHBSC9KheHltthuvy-mMo6qOMI1evBLmt9ySJxnF3XwgBaya6FBEmMj-1OxbPwV0IgreEe2KpO4/s1600/SoCalBouldering1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 250px; float: left; height: 377px; cursor: pointer;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592672962223369074" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Skt6fE-CFc93-Gi2CSqyHenxPVK0fySo_ZUNkjZIG59kN4LaCqePuDbKbDzakXvhcHBSC9KheHltthuvy-mMo6qOMI1evBLmt9ySJxnF3XwgBaya6FBEmMj-1OxbPwV0IgreEe2KpO4/s400/SoCalBouldering1.jpg" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:85%;" >SoCal Bouldering - Craig Fry - First Edition 1990</span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">1990 brought us what was to become the bible of Socal bouldering for many years, Craig Fry's original volume covering areas from Santa Barbara to the Mexican border. A true achievement in good information and number of areas covered, this is a really great book. Regarding Santa Barbara/Ventura in particular, we have the first printed mention of a newly discovered bouldering area called "The Brickyard" along with a note that "the Lizard's Mouth is not that great for bouldering", hmmmm, tell that to folks these days.<br /><br />Mostly, the Santa Barbara/Ventura chapter is taken up with topos of Painted Cave and a nice photo of a very young and mustachioed Rob Raker busting out the </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:100%;" >Old Soft Hsu, </span><span style="font-size:100%;"> padless of course, although sporting a thick 'stache like Rob's is a form of toproping and totally cheating. If Raker were to fein falling off of anything that day, his mustache would have prevented it, and at the very least, caught him. Also of note is the infamous notation on the old Jonny Woodward line left of </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:100%;" >Static Eliminator</span><span style="font-size:100%;">, "</span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:100%;" >Flake Broke Doesn't Go</span><span style="font-size:100%;">". </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:100%;" >Static Eliminator</span><span style="font-size:100%;"> itself is erroneously noted as </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:100%;" >Finger Cank (sic) 5.11+, </span><span style="font-size:100%;">while </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:100%;" >The Baby's Head is noted as "Static Eliminator 5.10+</span><span style="font-size:100%;">".<br /><br />Pine Mountain, although mentioned in Tucker's 1981 guide, is completely overlooked, although I'm guessing that this has more to do with remoteness and a lack of any real information on it. Overall, a great guide.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyP0hNyqmr_38wsoOuIEQdzHdJ4nMd69vF5Lp7sn20jUpqf3rB4alouB8XCT5pE5UarFYH4YJKE-y5VLOpEDTq_8L2jdRxDXR-sxLBmBDsYMUBioIcspUJ95dzI0DO1Tdbm_VQ0bAG9xg/s1600/Climbing.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; width: 250px; float: right; height: 369px; cursor: pointer;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592671688206038178" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyP0hNyqmr_38wsoOuIEQdzHdJ4nMd69vF5Lp7sn20jUpqf3rB4alouB8XCT5pE5UarFYH4YJKE-y5VLOpEDTq_8L2jdRxDXR-sxLBmBDsYMUBioIcspUJ95dzI0DO1Tdbm_VQ0bAG9xg/s400/Climbing.jpg" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" >Climbing! - Stephen Tucker/Kevin Steele - 1994</span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Thirteen years passed on after Tucker's first "real" Central Coast climbing guide before the next rendition of a comprehensive guidebook for the area appeared in late 1994. This time in the form of another excellent tome by Tucker, with Kevin Steele assisting.</span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Rock climbing had undoubtedly become much more popular in the time between the first guide in 1981 and this one, so the updated edition arrived with much anticipation and was quickly swept up. In fact, by the time I moved to Santa Barbara in late 1996, the Tucker/Steele book was sold out.<br /><br />One of the things about this book that I've noticed (and liked) is thumbing through the index by looking at star ratings, which shows a dirth of stars practically anywhere, evidence that the authors actually had their heads on straight and weren't trying to lead people to some fucking pile of shit in the hills just by giving it a star. If a route in this guide has a star rating, it likely deserved to be done, the rest of the routes, well, it's Santa Barbara choss, if you dig that sort of thing then, maybe you'll dig the route.<br /><br />While greatly expanding on the hundreds of new routes put up since the original guide, this one also happened to come out on the cusp of even more development, missing out on a lot of the new bouldering in the area, and roped routes at newly discovered chosspiles like Silly Rock up in north county and The Playground on West Camino Cielo. Overall, an excellent book filled with an excellent local history and a lot of information that is still completely relevant and useful today. On a sentimental note, when I moved to town, this was "the book", and I love it just for that.<br /></span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW2GSAZBdtmeGFtL6AvNj8rozV8bOx4LL-X_fPC9XLzXr1aH9rq7vOF04n4X1moJWN58Rgd3Fq-jy6MFvlCbvxOM_rW-M-Qff1g8zWJvSJ0Zxm5qA5wnaYEdD6lEj4odWDBIQpyyiCMZs/s1600/StoneCrusade.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 280px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW2GSAZBdtmeGFtL6AvNj8rozV8bOx4LL-X_fPC9XLzXr1aH9rq7vOF04n4X1moJWN58Rgd3Fq-jy6MFvlCbvxOM_rW-M-Qff1g8zWJvSJ0Zxm5qA5wnaYEdD6lEj4odWDBIQpyyiCMZs/s400/StoneCrusade.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5609037549362466546" border="0" /></a></span></p><p style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Stone Crusade - John Sherman - 1994</span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">When John Sherman did his grand bouldering tour of America in the early 90's for his upcoming book, Stone Crusade, he was unimpressed with the Santa Barbara areas that were seeing more development at the time (The Lizard's Mouth and The Brickyard in particular), however he was more than impressed with what he saw at The Swimming Hole outside of Fillmore in the Sespe wilderness.</span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Right up Sherman's alley, The Swimming Hole was a maze of a gargantuan boulders climbed by a select few guys with equally gargantuan gonads, and Sherman practically created the legend of The Swimming Hole in his excellent piece written for it, highlighting the two main activists of the area at the time, Jeff Johnson and Paul Anderson. The write-up on The Swimming Hole was my favorite part of the book before I even decided to move to the area and remains one of my favorite climbing write-ups ever. While it created a sort of legendary status to the two climbers featured (Jeff and Paul), and having gotten to climb and know both of them quite well over the past decade, their legendary status in the history of American bouldering is more than deserving. The outstanding photo of Johnson on the epic crux move of Tar Face says it all about our beloved Swimming Hole.</span></p><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >Rock and Ice - Guide to Santa Barbara by Steve Edwards - 1994</span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" ><br /></span><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/rockandice1994.pdf"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 265px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimxD0nY0dbKu_QeUDUNb1C8noiAtBGkotJG0-HoHw72ErBjrCCgpocyb3JIgnP9Sub6YjE3CJ_9s5CsGwJjw_EJCjkm9bYNuHSh4OasJURe3INEXZ8ex-yJw58HxKDH8XbcYMXcG6OwVI/s400/sb1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5609718385261081138" border="0" /></a></span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Perhaps thinking that the long promised 'new' Tucker guide to Santa Barbara would never come, Steve Edwards, owner of "Just Another @#$%$ Video Shop/Climbing Boutique", jumped into the fray with this nice article in Rock and Ice. It briefly covered several areas with hand drawn topos and selected routes (basically the good ones, or at least ones that he put up).</span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">The best part about the piece isn't the information though. It is the excellent, funny intro that Steve wrote, which, especially looking back, brings back fond memories. I mean, the guy references Carl Jung in a fricking climbing magazine...EPIC. And he also says that if you come there you "can stay at my place". He wasn't joking (I did), and up to this very day he pretty much has the same open invitation.</span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Another great tidbit in the article is the often forgotten fact that local mutant Phil Requist once climbed at a place that wasn't The Owl Tor. And he climbed at that place, Cold Springs Dome, with the same habitual schedule that he now climbs at the Tor. Steve brings up Bambino's $100 Challenge to follow him for a day at the steep Cold Springs wall, which no one ever collected on, 30 laps being his record (at the time). On another note, the Silly Rock area was discovered and bolted later on in 1994/1995 and I'd be willing to bet that Phil has never been back to Cold Springs since. Click on the photo for the article.<br /></span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfhOkOcUF3B3WEzoku7Zo1Jz4D6ZmDlSgt8wS3cdlqQOiFJtH6TfsPmeEfxrNFlv1U73UbYYKuF0SCxuy7LaSXP1g1pNxibxBY2JDivGBfe6qd7mk8B1uqYzmzzQKazVMWCjaDn1ZXPhM/s1600/SwimmingHole.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 250px; float: left; height: 380px; cursor: pointer;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592672163349957602" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfhOkOcUF3B3WEzoku7Zo1Jz4D6ZmDlSgt8wS3cdlqQOiFJtH6TfsPmeEfxrNFlv1U73UbYYKuF0SCxuy7LaSXP1g1pNxibxBY2JDivGBfe6qd7mk8B1uqYzmzzQKazVMWCjaDn1ZXPhM/s400/SwimmingHole.jpg" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" >The Swimming Hole - 1994</span><span style="font-size:100%;"><br />In the Swimming Hole section of Stone Crusade, Sherman hinted that 'an underground guide is in the works'. Well, that guide actually did happen, but precious few ever saw a copy of it, because it was kept very low profile. And, no, you weren't on the list.<br /></span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Achieving something of a legendary status because of John Sherman's "</span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:100%;" >Stone Crusade</span><span style="font-size:100%;">", the Swimming Hole was still largely under the radar, mainly because people were completely scared off by it, and rightly so. Lines at The Swimming Hole were big, hard, and bold and were put up in an era/area where toprope inspection and pad-stacking were decidedly not accepted.</span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">The underground Swimming Hole guide to bouldering is the kind I absolutely love, pure local. Hand scribbled topos, a handful of action shots and short but entertaining route descriptions: </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:100%;" >The Handicapper</span><span style="font-size:100%;"> B2- R/X "...more than scary", or on the notoriously scary and rarely repeated Paul Anderson testpiece <span style="font-style: italic;">A Touch Too Much</span>, "Touchy."<br /></span></p><p style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Put together on a Xerox machine, folded up and handed out to a handful of friends. Just perfect.</span></p><p style="font-weight: bold;" face="arial">Hot Flashes - In the Light of Day - Climbing Magazine, November 1994</p><p style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Just a short one (albeit with a nice photograph) to note the first ascent of the best route in Santa Maria (still), Phil "Bambino" Requist's awesome <span style="font-style: italic;">Better Than Life</span> at The Owl Tor. Has it really been almost 17 years? Jesus. The best part about this piece in the Hot Flashes section is that it is placed directly next to another short piece, one describing an attempted ascent of Yosemite's notorious <span style="font-style: italic;">Southern Belle</span>, a route which could not possibly be more opposite. Drilled pockets on sport bolted steep choss on one side, while sparsely protected slab/near vertical with death fall potential occupies the other side of the page. Oddly enough, I think these two routes have seen very close to the same number of ascents over the last 17 years. Go figure.</span></p><p style="font-weight: bold; font-family: arial;" face="arial"><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/bambino_1994.pdf"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Bambino</span></a><br /></p><p style="font-family: arial;" face="arial"><br /></p>bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-808741756447024472011-05-15T08:01:00.000-07:002011-05-31T22:08:59.216-07:00Santa Barbara Climbing History In Print: I & II<div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Note</span>: Recently I've spent some time compiling and scanning as much printed medium that I could find that covers climbing in the Santa Barbara area. Originally intended to be one post, I've broken it up into what will be several, with some [I think] cool stuff that appeared in books, magazines, and newspaper articles over the years.</span></span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">PART I: The 70's</span></span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4FE_9iMLPYtjhgkZj2I2oDCKAOynqD2Yn3cUKv7gW-wvdINi4kSVR5srJR94s-Qi6lRkyEh__TgSADR5TDjfVJ3kgBfsXCmLYW-d9d-Ho6m9fzpZ1LiIKSo7zXLD12aWnqg6Pr9m50Rw/s1600/summit.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 221px; height: 305px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4FE_9iMLPYtjhgkZj2I2oDCKAOynqD2Yn3cUKv7gW-wvdINi4kSVR5srJR94s-Qi6lRkyEh__TgSADR5TDjfVJ3kgBfsXCmLYW-d9d-Ho6m9fzpZ1LiIKSo7zXLD12aWnqg6Pr9m50Rw/s400/summit.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5607170361824611442" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">It was a magazine article, not a guidebook, that showcased the first published information on Santa Barbara climbing [that I've come across]. Steve Tucker's introductory article, <span style="font-style: italic;">Climbing in the Santa Barbara Area</span> in Summit Magazine (September 1975), gives us a taste of Santa Barbara-area climbing in the 1970's, which primarily was focused on the Gibraltar rock area and the Sespe Gorge. This is not so surprising, since they are two of the most obvious pieces of somewhat decent rock within 100 miles. But the article also touches on neat tidbits of history, such as the discovery of the steep north face of Cold Springs Dome (no completed routes are mentioned), and the recent "first ascent" of the <span style="font-style: italic;">Euell Gibbon</span> route (<span style="font-style: italic;">The Nose</span>) by the legendary vagabond badass from back east, Henry Barber.<br /><br />The article is short and only has 3 photos, the best of which shows a climber on <span style="font-style: italic;">Any Minute Now</span> at Gibraltar lead climbing with a backpack on as if he's doing some multi-pitch adventure in The Bugaboos, giving an unknowing reader the impression that you aren't 150 feet from a paved road. This brief expose is a terrific step back into a time when adventure climbing in Santa Barbara was much easier to come by than it is these days, when we have to wait for the hillsides to burn to the ground before exploring remote rock.<br /><br />Since Summit Magazine is long defunct, I don't think I'll run into any copyright issues by posting the article in it's entirety, so here it is:<a href="http://king-dino.com/summit1975.pdf"> Summit 1975</a><br /><br /><br /></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">PART II: The 80's</span></span><br /></div><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />For what is essentially a crap area for rock climbing (don't try arguing with me, it's true), Santa Barbara/Ventura for some unknown reason has been covered by a few much better than average guidebooks over the course of 30 years. Stellar climbing areas like Yosemite and Joshua Tree have been burdened in the past with guidebooks that have been downright boring, page after page of black and white maps, photos of cliffsides, and drab text (to be fair, I've heard that both of the new J-Tree books are a step up, but have not seen them yet). Sure they may get you to the right place and tell you how long the pitch is, but beyond that, YAWN. I've always loved perusing climbing guides that had a little bit more to say. Early favorites of mine were Alan Watts' <span style="font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Guide to Smith Rocks</span><span style="font-family:arial;"> and what was the the best of the big ones, John Sherman's 1991 tome for </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Hueco Tanks</span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-family:arial;">, a guidebook that I bought and read cover to cover 5 years before I ever made it to Hueco.<br /><br />Why was Sherman's book so good?<br /><br />Mainly, because it made me laugh. From the prologue all the way through the route descriptions, Verm made an effort to lighten things up and keep you reading to see what he might say next. Genius. In comparison, the latest Hueco guide by Matt Wilder might look pretty, but it's nothing special to read. I spun through it in the mountain shop, but unfortunately didn't feel the need to invest.</span><br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGKwv-DcPn00n8e_uErpEzThoD-DLftSOzY2mXbG7hrBOWu7yP8LH4CZIr3tXOABGFi16RxYEPhuCp2_qejIu7NVeU0xgj4aeJkqCL0z-aAfFlvUCreqelA4wV7a9FR_7wcWKIm0zQjSY/s1600/ClimbingSpiral.jpg"><span style="font-family:arial;"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 400px; float: left; height: 299px; cursor: pointer;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592708996250786050" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGKwv-DcPn00n8e_uErpEzThoD-DLftSOzY2mXbG7hrBOWu7yP8LH4CZIr3tXOABGFi16RxYEPhuCp2_qejIu7NVeU0xgj4aeJkqCL0z-aAfFlvUCreqelA4wV7a9FR_7wcWKIm0zQjSY/s400/ClimbingSpiral.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-family:arial;">In general, I tend toward liking the smaller books not handled by some big publishing house (read: <span style="font-weight: bold;">Falcon Guides suck ass</span>, and it is entirely possible that at some point in the future I will detail why this statement is fact). Case in point for the small guys, the outstanding original guide to Santa Barbara,<span style="font-style: italic;"> Climbing in Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties</span> self published in 1981 by Stephen Tucker. This is a true gem of a guidebook, one of the best of small local guides that I've ever come across. It's got legendary Yvon Chouinard on the cover, excellent hand drawn action images and topos, and lots of action shots of the pioneering local SB crew from the 1970s: Steve Tucker, Chuck and Steve Fitch, Kevin Brown, Doug Hsu, Rick Mosher, and Mike Forkash (first ascentionist of <span style="font-style: italic;">Makunaima</span> and interestingly enough, one of the first climbers that I met after showing up in Santa Barbara). The book is pure joy.</span><br /><div style="text-align: left;font-family:arial;"><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Notable also is the first printed reference to "<span style="font-style: italic;">The Nose</span>", previously referred to as the "Euell-Gibbon Route" at 5.10+ , and the first notation of Lizard's Mouth as laying claim to some of "the newer boulder problems in the area", and Pine Mountain as well, including a photo of local bouldering legend Doug Hsu bouldering in what looks to be The Happy Hunting Grounds area.<br /><br />This spiral-bound guide is hard to find, in fact after a long time searching, I only finally picked one up 2 or 3 years ago. However, with the number of vintage book stores out there online, it's become a bit easier to seek out obscure titles like this one. Definitely worth the search if you're a climbing history/guidebook buff.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Santa Barbara Sandstone: Climbing Magazine - August 1987</span></span><br /><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;">Note: This one escaped my radar until Steve made note of it, hence the addendum.</span></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Here's a short little expose by Frank Brodarick no doubt inspired by some of the recent goings-on in the area, notably Dave Griffith's ascent of <span style="font-style: italic;">Smooth Arete</span> at the Gibraltar area. Not really a great read, it's more of a mini-guide, but it's got a couple nice photos, one of D-Griff on </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Makumania</span><span style="font-family:arial;"> (sic - also mis-spelled in the text as </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Makunamia)</span><span style="font-family:arial;">, and another of the always photogenic </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >T-Crack</span><span style="font-family:arial;">.</span><br /><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/SB_1987.pdf"><span style="font-family:arial;">Santa Barbara Sandstone</span></a><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Gzhug8sH679V1WDr_93DqKj7S4oFM9fLi4IAv0LPk183TrygdK3z_fatGQ1XuyYrLecx-MZi_H6yiunieUU-m-tO0ol_kgfcrwq0nJXd0X9m6_AmmKOYkd324CTvxiO8O9he7b79_9o/s1600/SoCalClimbing.jpg"><span style="font-family:arial;"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 250px; float: left; height: 388px; cursor: pointer;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592673073497655298" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Gzhug8sH679V1WDr_93DqKj7S4oFM9fLi4IAv0LPk183TrygdK3z_fatGQ1XuyYrLecx-MZi_H6yiunieUU-m-tO0ol_kgfcrwq0nJXd0X9m6_AmmKOYkd324CTvxiO8O9he7b79_9o/s400/SoCalClimbing.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br />In 1988 came the first proper SoCal "compilation book" (that I have found), which has a brief few chapters on Painted Cave, Gibraltar Rock, San Ysidro, and The Sespe Gorge Wall. No great photos or or anything too interesting here, just basic information at a time when there was very little. Notable is the author's coverage of some obscure SoCal bouldering areas (not Santa Barbara in particular) that likely would be overlooked in a compilation guide put together today.<br /><br />More notable though, is the author's choosing to use a cover photo of a crappy but photogenic climbing route with a hot chick on it, inspiring many more SoCal guidebooks of the future.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /><br />Where To Go When the Surf's Down - Climbing Magazine - July 1989</span><br />At the tail end of the decade Ventura activist Reese Martin posted up a short 1-page piece in Climbing magazine highlighting some of the recent development in Ventura and Ojai. Since the only featured photo is of the graffiti-ed artificial Ventura River Wall, I'm not so sure this one inspired many people to head to the coast to get their crank on. A short topo is provided for The Foot (can't say I've ever been there), and Thacher School bouldering, which is so small I went once about 14 years ago and haven't been back since.<br />Anyways, here's the article: <a href="http://king-dino.com/ojai.pdf">Ventura-Ojai</a><br /></span></div> </div>bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-39292131912583519222011-04-11T00:01:00.000-07:002011-04-11T00:01:01.857-07:00Shoe Whore<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirzjVnBfEqmr4h1KugmCBOgDXyOUy3PMqa7-CXcQRCYri-Ikw1F9A_BcYLrVCq21LRPGtRInWDpxhD3qHYLF4SqJblDy2OmL95szviIoDFOZFSG0Uqqn-2jAdO43OCWOSczoId1NSjAWc/s1600/dogs.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 227px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirzjVnBfEqmr4h1KugmCBOgDXyOUy3PMqa7-CXcQRCYri-Ikw1F9A_BcYLrVCq21LRPGtRInWDpxhD3qHYLF4SqJblDy2OmL95szviIoDFOZFSG0Uqqn-2jAdO43OCWOSczoId1NSjAWc/s400/dogs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588229160680631330" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" ><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">I own 33 pair of shoes.</span></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br />I am loathe to admit it, since I have been known to viciously berate my girlfriend about her grossly overstocked closet stacked high with [mostly unworn] pumps, flats, high heels, sandals and sneakers.<br /><br />"They all have a purpose!", she tells me.<br /><br />'Purpose' often means that there is exactly one outfit, combination, or unworn dress in the closet that the shoe <span style="font-style: italic;">perfectly</span> matches with, and therefore each pair sits there awaiting the prime opportunity for elegant display to the general public.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">I never really thought about my own shoe problem until I added yet another sporting activity to my lifestyle and recently bought cross-country ski boots. And I thought to myself, "Kee-rist, how many freaking pair of 'sports footwear' do I have now?" And I started to count them up, which together with far too many pair of 'non-sports' footwear added up to 33. Shocking, I know, particularly for someone who's been known to only wear flip-flops just about everywhere (I have 3 pair of those). Ski boots, snowboard boots, running shoes (3), approach shoes (2), climbing boots (10 - maybe more) , cycling shoes, surf booties, the list goes on.<br /><br />Admittedly, part of the problem is that I effectively have two residences and I don't like toting all of my shit from one place to the next. So while I normally would only have one approach shoe, I in fact have two, one here in Santa Barbara and another at the cabin in the Sierra. Same with running shoes and flip flops. For a long time my climbing shoes outnumbered all of my other shoes put together because I pretty much wore flip flops or sneakers and the rest of the time I was rock climbing. But really, why do I need so many pairs of rock boots? Given the amount of time I spend climbing these days (much, much less than it used to be), I certainly don't. But I'm not gonna throw them away. I mean, those 1994 La Sportiva Kendos with a nearly fresh resole are just waiting for the right route. And I've gotta have the Five-Ten Ascents (a pair at each residence) for those endurance bouldering sessions and the Newton's for all that Tuolumne granite that I've been meaning to get back on the last few years...<br /><br />I guess I see what Deb is saying, they all have a purpose and when you need them, they'll be there, ready and waiting.<br /><br />Just had a thought.<br />Do snowshoes count? Ummm, 34.</span>bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-85542297245680322432011-04-04T22:25:00.000-07:002011-04-04T23:04:01.163-07:00Allez - Southern California's Crag Mag<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" style="font-family: arial;" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9B6jC0Wx6rCFHqJslv6SoWccmd5GKAZJBVGwMB2pWAxOcPa8dgshTDqP0pHr9fcqsBSwecQMLV15YWgF6e0pKZtlBx48ApIbn3ai7shLVaJ5UERuuvyYN6qog5X0BjJG7e5FLspgoPao/s1600/sharpstick.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 197px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9B6jC0Wx6rCFHqJslv6SoWccmd5GKAZJBVGwMB2pWAxOcPa8dgshTDqP0pHr9fcqsBSwecQMLV15YWgF6e0pKZtlBx48ApIbn3ai7shLVaJ5UERuuvyYN6qog5X0BjJG7e5FLspgoPao/s400/sharpstick.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591967791338392610" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-family:arial;"><br />In mid-1994, Santa Barbara climbers Steve Edwards, Phil Requist, and Binky Greene got together to produce the short lived SoCal climbing rag, </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Allez</span><span style="font-family:arial;">.</span> <span style="font-family:arial;">The focus of </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Allez</span><span style="font-family:arial;"> was primarily on hard sport-climbing, competitio</span><span style="font-family:arial;">ns, training, and [increasingly] by the 4th issue, varying degrees of oddities often having absolutely nothing to do with climbing (at left, the uber-classic "</span><span style="font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Sharp Stick Instructions</span><span style="font-family:arial;">' by Belt Potter).</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />Encompassing summer 1</span><span style="font-family:arial;">994 until fall of 1995 for a total of 5 issues, the first four issues were printed and distributed old school, the fifth and final issue was available exclusively online (pretty visionary back in 1995). Unfortunately, that final issue is gone forever, as it was lost off of a hard drive many hard drives ago. Of the printed c</span><span style="font-family:arial;">opies of </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Allez</span><span style="font-family:arial;"> (vol. 1-4) there are undoubtedly few of them left in existence (I think Phil is the only one with a complete set) so I took the time to scan them all recently and post them up for download. Enjoy</span>.<br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Trivia Question</span>: What is the significance of the website name "<span style="font-style: italic;">King-Dino</span>". I'll buy a beer for the first one to get the correct answer. </span><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.king-dino.com/allez1.pdf"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 233px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjneooItdrjtyEgrY-QUx-NCXCYfHDfO_k8cvRr95ffa9W93jso9bssq-LnLepS9FDhB8XdqG46-NnI9HpHgQwyTQOSVdenkb52LYE6FJiUtLfTNhRCE9lN4K9GYfVRpTDduzaO66VNUSY/s400/Allez_1_Cover.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591972929607716434" border="0" /></a><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/allez1.pdf"><span style="font-family:arial;">Allez #1</span></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.king-dino.com/allez2.pdf"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 233px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjttD_k27ALGxyuqL90c3rUOmlXwmFlUZTw0e8qoZaoFIOlphlMSLGU4E24_Wc25AJSWVpPZJ965TRka7U0OEPaulVQfpUYKFcwitI3jYZ4XaAw3Ss1VCHUEZN4Dgio8ZEyB0r948LdQbk/s400/Allez_2_Cover.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591973368219725826" border="0" /></a><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/allez2.pdf"><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Allez #2</span></a><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.king-dino.com/allez3.pdf"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 235px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcriSeiJ-hPD421AZWuW0nM5UbP-G_rbAsuoanngSoHBFhP7g7CxXTHS91Ufr9i74jAUnm4CcaWYwnNE76XieBXsn-snMXiPfpTe2f2CdoHdOoZFuAAeuT3rMAzUuaBMi7ugdOX4tgqw0/s400/Allez_3_Cover.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591973614456763890" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/allez3.pdf"><br /></a><span style="font-family:arial;"><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/allez3.pdf">Allez #3</a><br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.king-dino.com/allez4.pdf"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 236px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDvS3N7MN3GiVTkYtnnAryc65Sd7KwizDvzGZR0TVUt986KaNBICg4utBULlkhvReUIT1GHoJ0uTbWxqmbu6ckOzblDjVm7uK0zelKorsYrpd1owoRimiwy1K00PSkEM8o_ewCAHk-Cjs/s400/Allez_4_Cover.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591973925616154290" border="0" /></a><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/allez4.pdf"><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Allez #4</span></a><br /> </div>bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-53061223699558316942011-03-24T20:59:00.000-07:002011-03-25T21:27:27.650-07:00Video Review - The Wildest Dream<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" 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name="TOC Heading"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Wildest Dream *</span><br /></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Did Mallory summit Everest first in 1924? That’s the question that this film asks after American alpinist maestro Conrad Anker became rather disturbingly obsessed after finding George Mallory’s frozen corpse in 1999. The answer to the question remains the same as it has always been, no one fucking knows. And I’m of the opinion that, who fucking cares? Ed Viesturs always had the most poignant comment on the issue of Mallory summiting, which was something like, “So what? That’s like swimming to the middle of the ocean.” Adventure is a round-trip. Being the first to do something and then dying in the middle of it, well, it negates whatever accomplishment you thought you’d made. Accolades from accomplishment are the rights of those that exit them on the living side. Dying on the way to or from something means only one thing…you died trying.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Anyways, Conrad, who is beyond dull as a camera presence, attempts the mountain with Leo Houlding, who is far less dull and garners far less camera time. What this movie needed was a whole lot less Conrad Anker and way more Leo Houlding, preferably slot-eyed and speaking his mind freely about the experience of mountain climbing and film making after exhaling a big fat bowl. That alone would’ve made the movie that much less of a bore, which unfortunately, I found it to be. In short, they wore some vintage rags for all of about 2 pitches, freed the 2<sup>nd</sup> step (in ultra-modern equipment), claimed it was totally feasible for Mallory to have freed it (although from the looks of it, incredibly unlikely), <span style=""> </span>summited, and went down.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">This movie reminded me of a notable slide-show event at one of the OR shows several years ago (well, I think it was at OR). Some old alpine guy (Greg Child or Jeff Lowe maybe?) gave some epic slide show with tons of big-mountain pics and the audience fell the fuck asleep while whoever it was yammered on like a robot (“Ummm, this photo is the col on Lhotse, there was a big avalanche here…”). This show was followed by a young Leo Houlding, who had a grand total of something like three slides and kept the audience riveted and in side-splitting laughter for the entire time he had the stage. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">So, <span style="font-style: italic;">The Wildest Dream</span> is not the most exciting<span style=""> </span>or inspiring climbing flick I’ve ever seen. Sections of photography were kind of nice, but not even close to the standards of the IMAX <span style="font-style: italic;">Everest</span> flick, and like a said, a little more Leo would’ve gone a long way.</span></p>bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-69048238768761319422011-03-14T20:54:00.000-07:002011-03-14T21:32:35.068-07:00Sunday Bouldering<span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >Crawled out of my hole and headed up to hills Sunday evening to meet up with some friends. First off was a quick session at The Brickyard. Picked up a bunch of cigarette butts and fingertape (dickheads). Met up with my friend Kelsey who quickly hiked </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >Yeti</span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" > and then moved over to work on </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >Smooth Criminal</span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >. I had to leave so I don't know if she sent, but I ma</span><span style="font-size:100%;"><img style="font-family: arial;" src="file:///C:/Users/Bob/Pictures/Mouth_Yard_3_13_11/Untitled%20Export/kelsey_smooth1thumb.jpg" alt="" /></span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >naged a couple decent photos of her o</span><span style="font-size:100%;"><img style="font-family: arial;" src="file:///C:/Users/Bob/Pictures/Mouth_Yard_3_13_11/Untitled%20Export/kelsey_smooth1thumb.jpg" alt="" /></span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >n the initial moves, which was the only part giving her trouble.</span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" > It's hard to take a bad picture of <span style="font-style: italic;">Smooth Criminal</span>, such a great line on a great piece of stone.</span><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /><br /><br /></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a style="font-family: arial;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjumIXv3uOqpswap-q0xftypQEmcmZDMlL7rcfrze2zp0brKHgivTnWuwmb6LJUs3rdUp3glVufwhssDZtzZznnsTY1G8dXPhuAFhMoEdSY9lPb-C82y2f7BLpX9R4zaWszFNRzYMEYF8I/s1600/kelsey_smooth1thumb.jpg"></a><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/kelsey_smooth1.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjumIXv3uOqpswap-q0xftypQEmcmZDMlL7rcfrze2zp0brKHgivTnWuwmb6LJUs3rdUp3glVufwhssDZtzZznnsTY1G8dXPhuAFhMoEdSY9lPb-C82y2f7BLpX9R4zaWszFNRzYMEYF8I/s400/kelsey_smooth1thumb.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584152041625467538" border="0" /></a> <a style="font-family: arial;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.king-dino.com/kelsey_smooth2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb7JSDXNITu7G_0s65H7o31nuLWwjGRbYBRH10uDeACCKjYKTP_dboQByCEuzXcw9ZXg-YFJjFnwiW2GBvhKLs71IMF14ZMMcem69g9aVq-QTf8Wj4HUDeXDcJ3rpE0h6JhVNMK64CeN4/s400/kelsey_smooth2thumb.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584152168902679314" border="0" /></a><br /></span></div><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" ><br />Next, I headed over to The Lizard's Mouth to check out what local strongmen Andy Patterson and Bernd Zeugswetter were up to. When I got there they were up to some shenanigans on the<span style="font-style: italic;"> Lord of The Flies</span> boulder, proving that with a little imagination there's always adventure left to be had, even at places like The Mouth. They found an improbable looking nice new line to the left of<span style="font-style: italic;"> Lord of the Flies</span>. Both sent it, not sure of a name or a rating, but it's very nice looking, finishing up <span style="font-style: italic;">LOTF</span> at the jug.</span><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /><br /><br /><br /></span><div style="text-align: center;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Andy:<br /></span></div><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span><div style="text-align: center;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfJEvMtVe4FJotqGNd7HnD5H07u1fLyYuPnops9IMaOth0YSr7FUa-y3eAw5SPEUTAEilW5URQ2OUE_iJOUokdyVrIxDMaSWgoCQhQuK8NuuiHDk6U7sWFVlsk92q2DT17HMUqpZohdbI/s1600/andy_1thumb.jpg"></a><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/andy_1.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfJEvMtVe4FJotqGNd7HnD5H07u1fLyYuPnops9IMaOth0YSr7FUa-y3eAw5SPEUTAEilW5URQ2OUE_iJOUokdyVrIxDMaSWgoCQhQuK8NuuiHDk6U7sWFVlsk92q2DT17HMUqpZohdbI/s400/andy_1thumb.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584154961684729554" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://www.king-dino.com/andy_2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge_cXYvIhcu2X-cpdld_C0dYVzxAiVxD2ldxoHJrRLHOk-4SulMr1eckncubrMSYSqGw0is0pH6RfiBozLU_nFkl5Jzwz70Et_xRqAzZOZhE1-YUi3PRHDD6nW_MyuUnV8ZK8TonbW6xc/s400/andy_2thumb.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584155152856242450" border="0" /></a><br /></span></div><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /><br /></span><div style="text-align: center;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Bernd:<br /><br /></span></div><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span><div style="text-align: center;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/bernd_2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3MXV6YoECzMn8rrk6Wn85YyAkYrpJKpkN71DBRuJBrus3t1OGGk7U58gzJwCcaJb1PDOtgNse1h-d3MKV7FItmTK0JFuhLrZIijzxWf2GUCBRRFx0Lt3HXuwuNRa0rpwXTrw-oS5n2qA/s400/bernd_2thumb.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584155634550688914" border="0" /></a><br /><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/bernd_1.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2h7zcRzuETlScTnTJKmdsY5xS0_MTHBRPgCUZ0xDyciTrJ5XgGLLoJUjPZ_tX7-EsOFB2fDAhttLOnncTHUmyXQIXb3serO64EztsdmlgreC6Vf-pRFxNJvZ80QIzkI_OrdKC34NSiA/s400/bernd_1thumb.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584156328792749010" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt964hiT06YNlOeTXIa6Y3Ppq1Nly94XyR8xFki1_1a3ThBrxa45iumOhq3djc481JITHWsa7L6LmwSIvcF2jYUKb_CSXiuiopT9UQdKiTpnW4QDbgKspYYBpyp9QpBwyMI4ltQ9puyds/s1600/bernd_3thumb.jpg"> </a><a href="http://www.king-dino.com/bernd_3.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt964hiT06YNlOeTXIa6Y3Ppq1Nly94XyR8xFki1_1a3ThBrxa45iumOhq3djc481JITHWsa7L6LmwSIvcF2jYUKb_CSXiuiopT9UQdKiTpnW4QDbgKspYYBpyp9QpBwyMI4ltQ9puyds/s400/bernd_3thumb.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584155777721679426" border="0" /></a> <img src="file:///C:/Users/Bob/Pictures/Mouth_Yard_3_13_11/Untitled%20Export/kelsey_smooth1thumb.jpg" alt="" /></span></div>bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-2317608203713935322011-02-05T22:24:00.000-08:002011-03-26T22:27:19.269-07:00Video Review - 180 Degrees South<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga73CJmEzRB38g_-G-vT-IViCzlmSZsVC-mByN6fqKp6mLhvSzKKhthcAh_W_i8i2a4jyx9aemSWSGZ2qYqvLuBt3rFOlTY2CqXYYvfcwGsBDbXeHwrIvWhbvXoZJ7DDzcEql10Dm8CMM/s1600/180.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 220px; height: 220px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga73CJmEzRB38g_-G-vT-IViCzlmSZsVC-mByN6fqKp6mLhvSzKKhthcAh_W_i8i2a4jyx9aemSWSGZ2qYqvLuBt3rFOlTY2CqXYYvfcwGsBDbXeHwrIvWhbvXoZJ7DDzcEql10Dm8CMM/s400/180.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588626750235527602" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />180 Degrees South</span><span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span><span style="font-weight: bold;">*</span> <p style="font-family: arial;" class="MsoNormal">In a nutshell: Narcissistic trust-funder with connections at Patagonia (the business, certainly not the place) wants to make a movie about himself modeled after a long ago trip that a couple of as-yet-to-be multi-millionaires took in a Dodge van in 1968 to climb a mountain and surf (<i style="">reference: Mountain of Storm</i>s). Dude hitches a ride on an expensive boat because it’s far more glamorous than a shitty Dodge van, surfs a little, finds a chick to bone, strokes his beard and waxes rhapsodic. When he finally gets to the mountain he is told in not so many words that he knows fuck-all about mountain climbing, fails in what can only be described as ridiculous fashion and goes home. Beautiful cinematography is interspersed with interviews of bitter, incredibly wealthy old men whose primary interest in life now seems to be telling other people how to live theirs.</p><span style="font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >**I've had shitloads of people ask me about the Jeff Johnson in this movie. I don't know him. I'm sure he's a nice guy with good intentions, but the Jeff Johnson I know is a better mountaineer, better sailor, better surfer and I'm sure spends far less time looking at himself in the mirror than the Jeff Johnson in this movie.</span>bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178778203055937203.post-88521221349005937132011-02-02T18:59:00.000-08:002011-03-14T21:39:40.667-07:00Rant<div align="left"> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;">note: original date of this rant was 8.27.10</span><b><br /></b></span></p><p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" ><b>“People suck, and that’s my contention.</b></span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" ><b>I can prove it with scratch paper and a pencil.”<br /> </b></span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" ><b>~ Bill Hicks<br /> </b></span></p> <div align="left"> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >I went up to The Brickyard today for the first time in a long while. I don’t climb much anymore and while there was a time when I was at The Yard sometimes 4 days a week, I’ll bet I've been there less than 10 times in the last 5 years. And I got angry.<br /> </span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >I hate to pull the “old guy” routine, but in the mid to late 90s, when I was up there all the time, there was no trash. Because I took it out. And if there was any trash that showed up, it would only be there long enough for me to see it. And I’d pick it up and take it out with me.<br /> </span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" ><b>BECAUSE I CARED</b>.<br /> </span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >It seems that no one else gives a shit anymore, because the place is littered with trash. Let’s go on a tour of the boulders I visited today.<br /> </span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >Starting at The Ant Boulder, I found <a href="http://king-dino.com/DIPSHIT.jpg" target="_blank">a piece of 1 inch webbing</a> slung around a limb of the downclimb tree. The downclimb tree that a 5 year old could go up and down endlessly. The downclimb tree that I and others have safely descended countless times. To the dumbass that put this here: If you can’t make it down this tree to get off the boulder, just how in the FUCK did you get to the summit? And what the fuck were you doing with a 6 foot piece of webbing at a bouldering area anyway? Ok, I’ll try to understand: You took a bunch of 9 year old Girl Scouts climbing, somehow one of them got to the top of The Ant Boulder and was afraid to get down that nasty old tree. And you got into your trad kit and the light went off, “Tree anchor! It’ll be just like Yosemite!! Whee!!” Take your schwag home with you, asshole.<br /> </span></p> </div> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >At the base of the downclimb tree was a pair of socks and a couple cigarette butts. <a href="http://king-dino.com/SOCKS.jpg" target="_blank">SOCKS</a>. </span><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >I can picture it now: After sending his latest Ant Boulder Project and anxiously awaiting when he can get online to add the tick to 8a.doosh, dude takes a huge bong hit and with smoke billowing out of his lungs, “Fuck, that was killer!”, puts his shoes on sans socks and stumbles out of the Yard.<br /> </span></p> <div align="left"> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >Wrapping around The Ant Boulder<a href="http://king-dino.com/SHITBAG.jpg" target="_blank"> I came across a bag of dogshit</a> sitting there. That’s right, someone was kind enough to pick up their dog’s excrement, but fucking stupid enough to leave the bag sitting on the ground. So let’s see, you think you did your duty by picking it up and bagging it? What fucking good is a BAG of dogshit on the trail??? I have a dog, two in fact. I was lucky enough that Ratso was one of the more human dogs one would ever meet and he never liked anyone watching when he was dumping, so he’d always go off into the bushes where he couldn’t be seen. Almost never saw him crap, it was terrific. Of course these days, Ratso’s pushing 16 years and he pretty much takes a dump wherever he happens to be at the time, which is usually in the living room. Luckily, converted garages with concrete floors make that not such a big deal. My puppy Nanook, however, doesn’t have quite the smarts that Ratso did and has no problem at all pushing out a heater in front of Jehovah and everyone else. In fact he did it today, right on the trail into The Yard. And you know what I did? I took a fucking stick and flicked each steaming log 20 feet into the thick bushes and chaparral where no man will set foot until this place burns to the ground [again]. No bag necessary to forget, you fucking idiot.<br /> </span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >Carrying on past the Yeti Boulder, I came across what……another bag of dogshit sitting next to a tree. I’m shaking my head. This can’t be happening. No one is this fucking lame. But yes. People are this fucking lame. Picked up a couple more cigarette butts.<br /> </span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >And then I hit the Soot Patrol Cave, which has always been a popular hangout spot because of the mass of shade it provides. Fingertape. Cigarette butts. A ripped out tag from a Boreal pair of shoes (size 9).</span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >And back at The Dancing Outlaw auditorium. More cigarette butts. More fingertape.<br /> </span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >It’s fucking depressing and nothing will ever make me understand it. And it’s one thing for the shitheads who unthinkingly leave their garbage, but it’s yet another thing for the people who go there and ignore that there’s garbage surrounding them. This attitude that sees it yet says, “It’s not mine. I’m not picking it up.” Fuck that attitude, and <b>FUCK YOU</b> if that’s your attitude.<br /> </span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" ><b>My request to people out there is: CARE</b></span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >It's not just about The Brickyard. It's about everywhere.</span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >I know that only about 5 people look at this little site that I update about 3 times a year, but if people tell people who tell people who tell people, then <b>just maybe</b> 1 person out of a group of six will watch their buddy throw a cigarette butt on the ground next time and say, "Unless you want a Marlboro catheter bitch, pick that motherfucker up and put it in your pocket."</span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >And to everyone who's trash I picked up today, <a href="http://king-dino.com/FUCKHEADS.jpg" target="_blank">SUCK A DICK, FUCKTARDS</a>.</span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular;font-size:100%;" >If you want your trash back (webbing, socks, ciggy butts, fingertape or dogshit - I've got plenty) get in contact with me <a href="mailto:olympia_beer@hotmail.com" target="_blank">here</a>. I'd love to chat with you fucking idiots.</span></p> </div> </div>bob bankshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17864094410106514440noreply@blogger.com1